Well, we got some heavy rain here Tuesday. Almost 3" all day, but almost all of it in 1 hour.
I'm not going to complain bout it much. I needed some rain. It hasn't been as dry as in some years when the soil cracked open, but on the other hand, the soil surface and grass was dry this afternoon, so I mowed the lawn. Other places got more rain though, and not the kind that would just get soaked up by the lawn. Places in Maryland got 9-10", and In New York, it got up to 14". I saw pictures on TV of cars floating around in streets and parking lots. So it could have been a LOT worse here.
Still, I had some problems with water getting into the basement, and I thought I had solved that with the extra-large raingutters installed 2 years ago and a drainage ditch I dug from the sunken patio. The sunken patio has been a problem for a decade at least. It properly slopes slightly away from the house. The water that collects at the lower end for a day or 2 is a minor (but annoying) problem.
It's the fact that the lawn level has raised over the years that really creates the problem. Grass grows, I mow it, the clippings become topsoil, etc. Well, that's why praries have dozens of feet of topsoil. I need to lower the lawn level at the edge of the deck, but that is back-breaking work and I keep avoiding it.
Instead, I dig a drainage ditch. 3"wide, 3" deep, and the lawn slopes downhill from the patio, so it works great. It can drain off even the heaviest rain. The problem? Soil moves. The ditch slowly fills in very slowly and I never notice when it is QUITE not capable of handling the occasionally heavy rainfall. So I have to run out in the downpour and rescrape the ditch with the grubhoe deep enough to drain the patio.
But I had an additional surprise this time! The raingutters ARE working just fine. But, apparently, the soil level raised just enough this Summer to direct the outflow back toward the patio instead of out into the downslope lawn.
I'm generally an optimist (though maybe not a rational one). I always expect things I fix to STAY fixed. To show the flaw in that, I also expect weeded areas of the garden to STAY weedless, repaired cars to STAY working, and structures I build to stay standing. Obviously, there is a flaw in my expectations.
So when I dig a ditch to drain rainfall away from the patio, I expect it to STAY a ditch... Even though I'm the smartest person in the house, I have some errors in my assumptions.
So I'm going to fix this rainfall-in-the-basement problem once and for all! I'm going to build a sealed 1' dike in front of my basement! Just kidding...
Seriously, I'm going to lower the lawn level 3" below the edge of the patio/lawn. I will dig a 1' deep trench along that edge and toward the downslope lawn, and I will install perforated drainage pipe buried in sand and landscaping fabric (however it is recommended). And I will attach a 4' extension to the existing downspout to get the rainfall from the roof away from the patio.
Drainage pipe...
Gutter extention...
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Sunday, August 10, 2014
Deck Box, Part 2
One of the nice things about just posting pictures of projects is that the mistakes don't show up much. But there always are some. For example...
The tall framed part at the lower end had 2 metal rods pounded down through holes I drilled. It worked well. However, when I went to attach the first of the long boards along the side, I discovered a surprise. Attaching "2x" boards (which are actually only 1.5") usually requires 3" screws. Well, when I put the first one in, it went about 2" and stopped dead (actually stripping the hole). Baffled, I stopped and looked at it for a couple minutes.
Oh no! I had placed the metal rod too close to the end of the board and the screw was reaching it. I measured carefully and decided a 2.25" screw wouldn't reach the metal rod. Not as much holding power, so I used extras. And exterior wood adhesive. If that doesn't hold, I'll have to fashion an angled metal fastener on the outside of the corner to reinforce it. Which will remind me of my error forever, LOL!
You can JUST see the little dot of the metal bar on the top right of the picture. All I had to do was drill the holes 1" further from the end of the boards...
But I did make some more progress on the box today. The box has existing soil level at the high end and none at the bottom. Since the soil is poor, I decided to dig it deeper at the top and move it to the lower end. That will leave me with about 6" to fill with better soil, and the hostas I intend to plant there don't have deep roots, so that should work fine.
Unfortunately, that poor soil is also rock-hard. So I soaked the upper soil for an hour (yesterday) and attacked it today with my leverage fork. What fun! It was both still hard AND muddy. I was able to dig up about 4" of it and move it to the lower area, but what a MESS! And I need to do more digging tomorrow. No point in leaving bad soil near the surface.
Then I can fill it with topsoil and plant some leftover annual coleus and impatiens there for what's left of this season. I'll move the hostas from the front to this new box in October when the annuals die back.
Then I can get back to that chicken-wire garden enclosure to use next year.
The tall framed part at the lower end had 2 metal rods pounded down through holes I drilled. It worked well. However, when I went to attach the first of the long boards along the side, I discovered a surprise. Attaching "2x" boards (which are actually only 1.5") usually requires 3" screws. Well, when I put the first one in, it went about 2" and stopped dead (actually stripping the hole). Baffled, I stopped and looked at it for a couple minutes.
Oh no! I had placed the metal rod too close to the end of the board and the screw was reaching it. I measured carefully and decided a 2.25" screw wouldn't reach the metal rod. Not as much holding power, so I used extras. And exterior wood adhesive. If that doesn't hold, I'll have to fashion an angled metal fastener on the outside of the corner to reinforce it. Which will remind me of my error forever, LOL!
You can JUST see the little dot of the metal bar on the top right of the picture. All I had to do was drill the holes 1" further from the end of the boards...
But I did make some more progress on the box today. The box has existing soil level at the high end and none at the bottom. Since the soil is poor, I decided to dig it deeper at the top and move it to the lower end. That will leave me with about 6" to fill with better soil, and the hostas I intend to plant there don't have deep roots, so that should work fine.
Unfortunately, that poor soil is also rock-hard. So I soaked the upper soil for an hour (yesterday) and attacked it today with my leverage fork. What fun! It was both still hard AND muddy. I was able to dig up about 4" of it and move it to the lower area, but what a MESS! And I need to do more digging tomorrow. No point in leaving bad soil near the surface.
Then I can fill it with topsoil and plant some leftover annual coleus and impatiens there for what's left of this season. I'll move the hostas from the front to this new box in October when the annuals die back.
Then I can get back to that chicken-wire garden enclosure to use next year.
Saturday, August 9, 2014
That Deck Box
First, just want to say the pictures may not match up to the paragraphs. I didn't do a good job taking pictures as I went along the work. But enjoy them anyway.
Wow, I never did so much "Grub Hoe Trenching" before! The guys who had to dig the 2' wide and 2' deep holes for the deck posts complained about the hard soil (and they had power tools) and now I sure understand why! The stuff around the deck is hard rock and clay. Even with a pick and grub hoe, it was murderous just making a 3" wide trench for the boards to sit in!
To make things worse, I found that the cinder block wall around the patio is neither level compared to the house AND not level to the yard. That made constructing the frame enclosing the area level in both ways impossible. I did get real close...
So I did the best I could, attaching boards to the new deck posts, and keeping the long way boards as level as I could. Tricky, when nothing is flat, level or square to the house or the deck posts. And don't worry, all the bottoms of the boards will be "just" covered in soil outside in the lawn direction and perfectly level inside.
The good part is that the top boards are relatively level because I gave a lot of care to making sure the bottom boards were level. But that still made me fight a bit to get the top boards level.
The problem with DIY home projects is that you seldom do them twice, so you don't learn a whole lot that is useful from one project to the next. My biggest surprise was discovering that the metal rods I pounded through the holes I drilled in the very bottom boards were too close to the edges(you csn see the little dots on the first 2 pictures). My 3" exterior screws hit them before they were fully in. ARGGHHH! I had to find a bunch of 2 1/4" screws to use. I'll probably never have that situation again OR it will happen again so long in the future that I will forget!
Hopefully, using the exterior wood adhesive and several more shorter wood screws will solve the problem. Still, those kinds of surprises are maddening. Guys who build decks every day KNOW to avoid those kinds of errors. I only discover them ONCE!
But it was solved and I went forwards and upwards. I did underestimate how much trench-digging I had to do. Using a grub hoe around the twine line-marker and underneath the "just-low-enough-deck to hit my head on if I stood upright was more not-fun stuff. I banged my head more than once just standing up (and I even checked the height most times). It was actually safer (if harder) to use the grub hoe while kneeling.
That mailbox you see is for storing hose nozzles. Very useful for not losing track of them. I have another out in the garden for small hand tools (pruners, trowels, etc).
Finally, I reached the last board at the top of the slope! And discovered I had to bury it. Well, I knew the soil sloped down along the cinder block wall, but I hadn't noticed that it also sloped UP from it. I mean, you stand around and a few inches of sloping are not all that noticable. Well, it IS when you are down at ground level with a 3' bubble level tool!
And that soil was the part the deck guys complained about be "undiggable" (and they had power equipment). So there I was kneeling awkwardly on the ground hacking away at the rocks and hard clay to make the last 6' board level and even at the top with the previous one. That one last board took an HOUR to get both level AND matching the previous board.
I was drenched with sweat enough so the cats kept kept their distance, but I finally got that last board in place ans screwed in.
Sometimes I don't understand WHY I do this stuff. It's just for me (and you in pictures). I blame my Dad. He taught me to DO stuff, and I don't really know how to stop. I just feel "right" when I'm doing "something". Sometimes I think I do a lot more "stuff" than he did. LOL!
But it's better than sitting around watching bad TV.
Tomorrow, I will use my leverage fork to dig up the soil higher than the boards and move it down to the empty space. That will leave some space for better soil and some compost to bring it all up level with the wood framing. I have 2 flats of annual coleus and impatiens dying to the planted there. Well, I had expected to have this frame built a month ago. Still, I'm sure they will be happy.
Next Spring, I will be moving most of the front yard hostas to this space. That will save them from being eaten by the local deer (and I am contemplating venison steaks this Fall in revenge).
But this project HAS taught me the methods that I need to dig some shallow trenches and construction needed for the new framed beds and upright chicken-wire structure for my major garden. I'll finally get at that September 1st.
It never ends, and I'm glad it doesn't... And there are more projects on my list... The good news is that I could do this again better and in half the time.
Wow, I never did so much "Grub Hoe Trenching" before! The guys who had to dig the 2' wide and 2' deep holes for the deck posts complained about the hard soil (and they had power tools) and now I sure understand why! The stuff around the deck is hard rock and clay. Even with a pick and grub hoe, it was murderous just making a 3" wide trench for the boards to sit in!
To make things worse, I found that the cinder block wall around the patio is neither level compared to the house AND not level to the yard. That made constructing the frame enclosing the area level in both ways impossible. I did get real close...
So I did the best I could, attaching boards to the new deck posts, and keeping the long way boards as level as I could. Tricky, when nothing is flat, level or square to the house or the deck posts. And don't worry, all the bottoms of the boards will be "just" covered in soil outside in the lawn direction and perfectly level inside.
The good part is that the top boards are relatively level because I gave a lot of care to making sure the bottom boards were level. But that still made me fight a bit to get the top boards level.
The problem with DIY home projects is that you seldom do them twice, so you don't learn a whole lot that is useful from one project to the next. My biggest surprise was discovering that the metal rods I pounded through the holes I drilled in the very bottom boards were too close to the edges(you csn see the little dots on the first 2 pictures). My 3" exterior screws hit them before they were fully in. ARGGHHH! I had to find a bunch of 2 1/4" screws to use. I'll probably never have that situation again OR it will happen again so long in the future that I will forget!
But it was solved and I went forwards and upwards. I did underestimate how much trench-digging I had to do. Using a grub hoe around the twine line-marker and underneath the "just-low-enough-deck to hit my head on if I stood upright was more not-fun stuff. I banged my head more than once just standing up (and I even checked the height most times). It was actually safer (if harder) to use the grub hoe while kneeling.
That mailbox you see is for storing hose nozzles. Very useful for not losing track of them. I have another out in the garden for small hand tools (pruners, trowels, etc).
Finally, I reached the last board at the top of the slope! And discovered I had to bury it. Well, I knew the soil sloped down along the cinder block wall, but I hadn't noticed that it also sloped UP from it. I mean, you stand around and a few inches of sloping are not all that noticable. Well, it IS when you are down at ground level with a 3' bubble level tool!
And that soil was the part the deck guys complained about be "undiggable" (and they had power equipment). So there I was kneeling awkwardly on the ground hacking away at the rocks and hard clay to make the last 6' board level and even at the top with the previous one. That one last board took an HOUR to get both level AND matching the previous board.
I was drenched with sweat enough so the cats kept kept their distance, but I finally got that last board in place ans screwed in.
Sometimes I don't understand WHY I do this stuff. It's just for me (and you in pictures). I blame my Dad. He taught me to DO stuff, and I don't really know how to stop. I just feel "right" when I'm doing "something". Sometimes I think I do a lot more "stuff" than he did. LOL!
But it's better than sitting around watching bad TV.
Tomorrow, I will use my leverage fork to dig up the soil higher than the boards and move it down to the empty space. That will leave some space for better soil and some compost to bring it all up level with the wood framing. I have 2 flats of annual coleus and impatiens dying to the planted there. Well, I had expected to have this frame built a month ago. Still, I'm sure they will be happy.
Next Spring, I will be moving most of the front yard hostas to this space. That will save them from being eaten by the local deer (and I am contemplating venison steaks this Fall in revenge).
But this project HAS taught me the methods that I need to dig some shallow trenches and construction needed for the new framed beds and upright chicken-wire structure for my major garden. I'll finally get at that September 1st.
It never ends, and I'm glad it doesn't... And there are more projects on my list... The good news is that I could do this again better and in half the time.
Friday, August 8, 2014
Writing Process Blog Tour
Well I was sure surprised to discover the Mews had nominated ME for the next Writing Tour Blog Post. I USUALLY know what they are doing, but I DO get caught off guard once in a while.
So, apparently, I have to answer 3 questions and nominate some other blogs to carry it forward. OH, I see, they didn't want to find other blogs to nominate... Typical of them.
1) What are we working on? Well, aside from my own blog (which tends to get a political as elections draw nearer), I am getting back to writing some prehistoric "Just So" stories a la Kipling. I enjoy that. Not much competition there. Like writing about the discovery of gold, arrows, farming, taming horses, etc. I wrote a quick one about recognizing the first constellations just a few days ago.
Its nothing meaningful. I'm not much into character development, though I think I did a decent job of that in 'Gold'. Wrote a few shorts about cats. But I'm mostly trying to get back to the "Just So" stories. Those are fun to write.
My own blog is sporadic. I write when I feel like it, but mostly spend my time fixing up the Mews' blog so their thoughts are readable.
2) Why do we write what we do? I write because I HAVE to. Too many thoughts and too few close friends to inflict them on. I have a few ways to go in my writing.
A. I could write about what I dream, and those are pretty odd sometimes, but whole tales. I dream well and wake up often, so I recall them. I'm not sure what people would think, though, and it would be a bit stream-of-conciousness. Fortunately, my dreams aren't about monsters, or embarrassing situations. I would need a recorder at the bed for them to get the good details
B. I could write about the cats. But I suppose I'm already doing that (though they might disagree). Or I could write about family. I would have to disguise that severely. That might not be too hard; I doubt anyone in my family would WANT to claim I was writing about them.
C. I could write some sci-fi. I've sure read enough, and I keep up with current science. How hard could it be to use "dark energy" since no one knows what it is? LOL! Just a few days ago, I wtched a BBC production about aliens attacking the Earth (similar to but not quite 'War of the Worlds' and also vaguely like WWI. And my main thought was "I could do THAT" (and better).
Like many of us, I think there is a book in me just waiting to come out. But I'm more a short story person. But every time I think of writing anything, I think of 'The Star' by Arthur Clarke and know I can't beat THAT!
3) How does our writing process work? I write because I must. If I didn't write, I would just implode. Did you ever watch the movie 'Conagher'? At one point Evie is attaching short notes to tumbleweeds to drift out into the plains to express her loneliness and says (something like) if I don't write, I shall just die. I feel like that sometimes.
I really do feel like that sometimes. I can't NOT write. Whether poorly, inconsequentially, or ignored, I just have to send my thoughts out into the world. It's not for the cats, it's for me. I just HAVE to.
Well, so HOW do I write? All at once mostly. I get an idea and go with it. I don't have a plan. I seldom even have an ending in mind. I just start writing with an idea and see where my thoughts take me. Characters develop in ways I don't expect and they surprise me. Plots twist. Directions change. And all AS I am writing, Sometimes it is great. Mostly it sucks. I've deleted a WHOLE lot more than I have ever kept. Most of what I write is terrible and makes little sense after I re-read it. I pound my keyboard hard. I have to buy a new one every few months. Well, I get THAT excited when I have a good idea.
But sometimes I write something I like to read myself and that is all that matters. I forget who said he liked to write stories he would like to read, but I'm like that. Heinlein, Asimov? Not that I'm remotely close, but I just mean I understand.
The best sentence I ever wrote was "And died" (it makes sense in context). I worked days over that one, clarifying a thought from several sentences down to 2 words (a rare editing on my part).
**************
And now I must nominate 3 blogs to move things along. And they should be cat blogs (or related to cat blogs.)
I nominate (without checking first)...
1. Katie Isabella
2. Herman's Hideaway
3. Ramblingon
All some of the best writing I admire... Maybe I had best warn them.
So, apparently, I have to answer 3 questions and nominate some other blogs to carry it forward. OH, I see, they didn't want to find other blogs to nominate... Typical of them.
1) What are we working on? Well, aside from my own blog (which tends to get a political as elections draw nearer), I am getting back to writing some prehistoric "Just So" stories a la Kipling. I enjoy that. Not much competition there. Like writing about the discovery of gold, arrows, farming, taming horses, etc. I wrote a quick one about recognizing the first constellations just a few days ago.
Its nothing meaningful. I'm not much into character development, though I think I did a decent job of that in 'Gold'. Wrote a few shorts about cats. But I'm mostly trying to get back to the "Just So" stories. Those are fun to write.
My own blog is sporadic. I write when I feel like it, but mostly spend my time fixing up the Mews' blog so their thoughts are readable.
2) Why do we write what we do? I write because I HAVE to. Too many thoughts and too few close friends to inflict them on. I have a few ways to go in my writing.
A. I could write about what I dream, and those are pretty odd sometimes, but whole tales. I dream well and wake up often, so I recall them. I'm not sure what people would think, though, and it would be a bit stream-of-conciousness. Fortunately, my dreams aren't about monsters, or embarrassing situations. I would need a recorder at the bed for them to get the good details
B. I could write about the cats. But I suppose I'm already doing that (though they might disagree). Or I could write about family. I would have to disguise that severely. That might not be too hard; I doubt anyone in my family would WANT to claim I was writing about them.
C. I could write some sci-fi. I've sure read enough, and I keep up with current science. How hard could it be to use "dark energy" since no one knows what it is? LOL! Just a few days ago, I wtched a BBC production about aliens attacking the Earth (similar to but not quite 'War of the Worlds' and also vaguely like WWI. And my main thought was "I could do THAT" (and better).
Like many of us, I think there is a book in me just waiting to come out. But I'm more a short story person. But every time I think of writing anything, I think of 'The Star' by Arthur Clarke and know I can't beat THAT!
3) How does our writing process work? I write because I must. If I didn't write, I would just implode. Did you ever watch the movie 'Conagher'? At one point Evie is attaching short notes to tumbleweeds to drift out into the plains to express her loneliness and says (something like) if I don't write, I shall just die. I feel like that sometimes.
I really do feel like that sometimes. I can't NOT write. Whether poorly, inconsequentially, or ignored, I just have to send my thoughts out into the world. It's not for the cats, it's for me. I just HAVE to.
Well, so HOW do I write? All at once mostly. I get an idea and go with it. I don't have a plan. I seldom even have an ending in mind. I just start writing with an idea and see where my thoughts take me. Characters develop in ways I don't expect and they surprise me. Plots twist. Directions change. And all AS I am writing, Sometimes it is great. Mostly it sucks. I've deleted a WHOLE lot more than I have ever kept. Most of what I write is terrible and makes little sense after I re-read it. I pound my keyboard hard. I have to buy a new one every few months. Well, I get THAT excited when I have a good idea.
But sometimes I write something I like to read myself and that is all that matters. I forget who said he liked to write stories he would like to read, but I'm like that. Heinlein, Asimov? Not that I'm remotely close, but I just mean I understand.
The best sentence I ever wrote was "And died" (it makes sense in context). I worked days over that one, clarifying a thought from several sentences down to 2 words (a rare editing on my part).
**************
And now I must nominate 3 blogs to move things along. And they should be cat blogs (or related to cat blogs.)
I nominate (without checking first)...
1. Katie Isabella
2. Herman's Hideaway
3. Ramblingon
All some of the best writing I admire... Maybe I had best warn them.
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
Political Views
I don't consider myself "liberal". To me that means you consider that one can do anything they want (similar to Libertarian). I think of myself more as "progressive". I hesitate to use the word "believe" because that suggests things accepted without facts. Let's just says I "think" some things based on evidence.
There are many issues in politics today. When you get down to the basics, the disagreements are mostly about the role of government. I think that government is a positive thing.
Federalist Paper #1 said "It has been frequently remarked, that it seems to have been reserved to the people of this country, by their conduct and example, to decide the important question, whether societies of men are really capable or not, of establishing good government from reflection and choice, or whether they are forever destined to depend, for their political constitutions, on accident and force".
Therefore, representative government itself is a positive good. We have good roads, and government efforts have created those. We have an educated population and government-created public schools have done that. We have government regulations to keep unscrupulous and greedy people in check.
So Government is a generally positive benefit to society. Some people disagree. I disagree with them. I positively WANT an active government to coordinate the improvement of life for all the populace. That's what governance IS! Governance is NOT trying to kill all actions, stopping all improvements to life, or just saying "NO" everday to managing the nations affairs.
The progress of society has been from Kings to Representative Democracy (my apologies to the utopian Karl Marx). The more representative governance is, the better.
If I "believe" in anything, it is actively beneficial governance for all.
There are many issues in politics today. When you get down to the basics, the disagreements are mostly about the role of government. I think that government is a positive thing.
Federalist Paper #1 said "It has been frequently remarked, that it seems to have been reserved to the people of this country, by their conduct and example, to decide the important question, whether societies of men are really capable or not, of establishing good government from reflection and choice, or whether they are forever destined to depend, for their political constitutions, on accident and force".
Therefore, representative government itself is a positive good. We have good roads, and government efforts have created those. We have an educated population and government-created public schools have done that. We have government regulations to keep unscrupulous and greedy people in check.
So Government is a generally positive benefit to society. Some people disagree. I disagree with them. I positively WANT an active government to coordinate the improvement of life for all the populace. That's what governance IS! Governance is NOT trying to kill all actions, stopping all improvements to life, or just saying "NO" everday to managing the nations affairs.
The progress of society has been from Kings to Representative Democracy (my apologies to the utopian Karl Marx). The more representative governance is, the better.
If I "believe" in anything, it is actively beneficial governance for all.
Thursday, July 31, 2014
A Little Political Humor
I'm a bit of a political nerd, so I hope these make sense (and I like VP Biden a lot)...
If VP Joe Biden became President in 2016...
1. "Air Force One" would be a train. To Delaware.
2. Late night comedians would surge in the Neilson Ratings. Joe is a constant source of gaffes.
3. His White House Security name would be "VEEP".
4. He would be conciliatory; he likes both chocolate AND vanilla ice cream on his cones.
5. The official White House drink would be a non-tini (Joe doesn't drink alcohol).
6. New national food craze - PASTA. Joe loves pasta.
7. Hillary appointed New York State dog-catcher.
8. Then appointed Supreme Court Chief Justice (because Joe is a Nice Guy).
9. National Capital moved to Wilmington Delaware ("Weekly Air Force One Train transporatation costs too high, says POTUS Biden").
10. Republicans announce support for Biden, "he's Our Kind Of Guy - white, male, and old" they declare.
11. Southern Republicans go step further, "He's darn near a 'good ole boy' they say".
12. Political partisanship ends, criminals reform, cancer is cured, Mars colony established, Al Gore retroactively recognized as 43rd President. Bill Clinton resigns as VP to make room for Gore.
13 Vulcans arrive and invite Earth to join the Federation. Bill Clinton elected World Representative. Putin reduced to attacking neighboring nations in Risk Tournaments only. Republicans disband party...
If VP Joe Biden became President in 2016...
1. "Air Force One" would be a train. To Delaware.
2. Late night comedians would surge in the Neilson Ratings. Joe is a constant source of gaffes.
3. His White House Security name would be "VEEP".
4. He would be conciliatory; he likes both chocolate AND vanilla ice cream on his cones.
5. The official White House drink would be a non-tini (Joe doesn't drink alcohol).
6. New national food craze - PASTA. Joe loves pasta.
7. Hillary appointed New York State dog-catcher.
8. Then appointed Supreme Court Chief Justice (because Joe is a Nice Guy).
9. National Capital moved to Wilmington Delaware ("Weekly Air Force One Train transporatation costs too high, says POTUS Biden").
10. Republicans announce support for Biden, "he's Our Kind Of Guy - white, male, and old" they declare.
11. Southern Republicans go step further, "He's darn near a 'good ole boy' they say".
12. Political partisanship ends, criminals reform, cancer is cured, Mars colony established, Al Gore retroactively recognized as 43rd President. Bill Clinton resigns as VP to make room for Gore.
13 Vulcans arrive and invite Earth to join the Federation. Bill Clinton elected World Representative. Putin reduced to attacking neighboring nations in Risk Tournaments only. Republicans disband party...
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Next Project, Part 2
Made some progress on framing in the area around the sunken patio wall and deck posts the past to days. It's a bit awkward using just the deck leftovers, but I think I have them arranged so that I don't have to dig really deep trenches to set the boards into the ground.
The lower end needs a 2"x12" board and a 2"x10" board to reach the top on the cinder block wall, but the far end is almost level with the wall, so I only need a 2"x4" board. The in-between part will have a couple of stacked boards to complete the frame and make it level on the top of the boards. And I can attach those directly to the deck posts, so it will be very sturdy.
I had some problems figuring out how to attach the lower end boards firmly, until I thought of drilling holes down the width at both ends. I can put a 3' remesh bar through both and pound them into the ground with a sledgehammer. That will have the remesh bars 1' into the ground. Plus I will use some exterior caulking cement to attach the boards to the cinder block for some extra stability. It's not epoxy or resin, just like really thick toothpaste. I'm not sure what that stuff is actually called, but I've used it before to attach wood and cinder block in the basement and it holds like bolts!
Drilling the holes through the width of the 12 and 10" boards took 2 hours today! Fortunately, I have a large drill press (generic image). With some clamps and a speed square, I was able to get most on the holes drilled straight.
But it won't go all the way through a 12' board (8" depth only). So I had to finish the drilling manually. Fortunately, having the 8 inch holes drilled straight allowed me to use a manual drill for the rest. The drilled holes allowed me to stay straight for the final work. But I couldn't have done THAT without the extra long drill bit.
I bought a 6-piece set of extra long drill bits many years ago thinking "I'll need those some day". They're not the best quality either. Not titanium or even high-speed steel, but how often do you need something like those? So they were cheap and they work well enough. Just using a couple of the cheap drill bits a couple of times has been well worth the cost.
It took some work though! Every inch deep, I had to pull the drill bit out and remove sawdust packed in the drill spirals. Could I have simply turned the boards over on the drill press and drilled from both sides? Yeah. But experience has taught me that no matter how carefully you measure, holes drilled from 2 sides will NEVER meet in the middle. Sad but true. You need factory precision tools to do that.
But that part is now done. Tomorrow, I will attach the bottom pieces by pounding rebar through the holes and gluing the ends to the cinder block. Then it will be a lot easier to trench the long side boards and attach them to the deck posts.
Filling in the framed box will be easy. Why? Well, the yard is made of dirt; I can steal it from almost anywhere, LOL! I'm going to move the front yard hostas to the new box, and hostas don't even LIKE really good soil.
One interesting thing is that the hostas will be almost at eye level when I'm out on the sunken patio. I used to park at a city garage that had an arrangement like that, and it was really different seeing the plants that way. It was always calming. So I'm hoping for the same effect here.
Surprise discovery... The new deck posts are set precisely 14' away from the house. But the distance from the sunken patio cinder block wall varies by 6". The cinder block wall is NOT square to the house! Every project I do reminds me that the builder did a slipshod job in all aspects. So the framed box is not going to be a nice rectangle.
But it was either make the framed box a 90 degree rectangle (in which case the deck posts would have been variably farther inside the frame, or use the deck posts as the guide for the frame and the frame gets 6" narrower toward the high end. I decided that using the deck posts as a guide made a more logical appearance.
If any of my friends ever decide to measure it, I will rap their knuckles with a ruler! LOL!
Some notes from the first picture... 1) At the far side of the sunken patio, there are some hostas already planted. I had one common green hosta planted near the old deck stairs for 20 years and it spread some. I was able to divide it into 12 pieces and transplanted them there. All seem to be recovering well in that really terrible clay soil. Well, its what they were growing in before, so I assume they liked it.
2) That object in the upper right is a mailbox. Of course, I don't get my mail delivered in the back yard. But it makes a great place to store all my various garden hose nozzles and plumbers tape*. I have another out in the garden where I store all my small hand tools. Great idea to keep track of small items...
* Plumbers tape is thin plastic that wraps around the threads of hoses and attachments.
It does a great job of stopping water leaks around hose and nozzle connections. Leaky connections? Give it a try. $1 at most hardware stores.
The lower end needs a 2"x12" board and a 2"x10" board to reach the top on the cinder block wall, but the far end is almost level with the wall, so I only need a 2"x4" board. The in-between part will have a couple of stacked boards to complete the frame and make it level on the top of the boards. And I can attach those directly to the deck posts, so it will be very sturdy.
I had some problems figuring out how to attach the lower end boards firmly, until I thought of drilling holes down the width at both ends. I can put a 3' remesh bar through both and pound them into the ground with a sledgehammer. That will have the remesh bars 1' into the ground. Plus I will use some exterior caulking cement to attach the boards to the cinder block for some extra stability. It's not epoxy or resin, just like really thick toothpaste. I'm not sure what that stuff is actually called, but I've used it before to attach wood and cinder block in the basement and it holds like bolts!
Drilling the holes through the width of the 12 and 10" boards took 2 hours today! Fortunately, I have a large drill press (generic image). With some clamps and a speed square, I was able to get most on the holes drilled straight.
But it won't go all the way through a 12' board (8" depth only). So I had to finish the drilling manually. Fortunately, having the 8 inch holes drilled straight allowed me to use a manual drill for the rest. The drilled holes allowed me to stay straight for the final work. But I couldn't have done THAT without the extra long drill bit.
I bought a 6-piece set of extra long drill bits many years ago thinking "I'll need those some day". They're not the best quality either. Not titanium or even high-speed steel, but how often do you need something like those? So they were cheap and they work well enough. Just using a couple of the cheap drill bits a couple of times has been well worth the cost.
It took some work though! Every inch deep, I had to pull the drill bit out and remove sawdust packed in the drill spirals. Could I have simply turned the boards over on the drill press and drilled from both sides? Yeah. But experience has taught me that no matter how carefully you measure, holes drilled from 2 sides will NEVER meet in the middle. Sad but true. You need factory precision tools to do that.
But that part is now done. Tomorrow, I will attach the bottom pieces by pounding rebar through the holes and gluing the ends to the cinder block. Then it will be a lot easier to trench the long side boards and attach them to the deck posts.
Filling in the framed box will be easy. Why? Well, the yard is made of dirt; I can steal it from almost anywhere, LOL! I'm going to move the front yard hostas to the new box, and hostas don't even LIKE really good soil.
One interesting thing is that the hostas will be almost at eye level when I'm out on the sunken patio. I used to park at a city garage that had an arrangement like that, and it was really different seeing the plants that way. It was always calming. So I'm hoping for the same effect here.
Surprise discovery... The new deck posts are set precisely 14' away from the house. But the distance from the sunken patio cinder block wall varies by 6". The cinder block wall is NOT square to the house! Every project I do reminds me that the builder did a slipshod job in all aspects. So the framed box is not going to be a nice rectangle.
But it was either make the framed box a 90 degree rectangle (in which case the deck posts would have been variably farther inside the frame, or use the deck posts as the guide for the frame and the frame gets 6" narrower toward the high end. I decided that using the deck posts as a guide made a more logical appearance.
If any of my friends ever decide to measure it, I will rap their knuckles with a ruler! LOL!
Some notes from the first picture... 1) At the far side of the sunken patio, there are some hostas already planted. I had one common green hosta planted near the old deck stairs for 20 years and it spread some. I was able to divide it into 12 pieces and transplanted them there. All seem to be recovering well in that really terrible clay soil. Well, its what they were growing in before, so I assume they liked it.
2) That object in the upper right is a mailbox. Of course, I don't get my mail delivered in the back yard. But it makes a great place to store all my various garden hose nozzles and plumbers tape*. I have another out in the garden where I store all my small hand tools. Great idea to keep track of small items...
* Plumbers tape is thin plastic that wraps around the threads of hoses and attachments.
It does a great job of stopping water leaks around hose and nozzle connections. Leaky connections? Give it a try. $1 at most hardware stores.
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Energy Reduction Quote
I received the company's fixed price quote today. Interesting reading... I have some questions about some of their measurements and proposed actions. They want to meet with me personally to discuss the proposal, but I prefer to do it by email.
I always prefer to take company salespeople out of their comfort zone (talking a lot off the record). Responding to email questions, they have to answer the questions and I have the email to read and re-read a few times to make sure I see what they are evading (if anything). And it gives me time to consider more questions.
For example, I've noticed they over-estimated my current annual bill by 20% (and I showed them my last 12 month bills), they overestimated my "conditioned" (meaning heated and cooled) residential square footage (added in my unheated garage as a "conditioned" area), added an extra exhaust fan to be sealed, etc.
So I will compose a list of questions for them to answer. They should be pleased. Their salesperson is 30 minuted away from me and planned a 30 minute visit to explain the quote. I'm helping them do it in about 10 minutes. Yes, I'm being a bit sarcastic... I was a salesman once and know the value of talking face-to-face, sliding around questions, and not have anything in writing except the actual contract (with all the fine print).
Mostly, I know what works for ME. I bought my last car by email, and it sure saved me a lot of time AND money. No sitting around while the salesman pretends to "see if I can get the Manager to go for this low deal". And with everything in writing, there were no "little surprise add-ons" afterwards. I got the car for $500 above the dealers actually cost (according to the Consumer Reports Car Report I bought for $12). And the car will be 10 years old In October. So I like negotiating at a distance.
Back to the energy savings quote... The total quote is for $5100 (with a $2000 subsidy from my electrical supplier bringing it to $3100). The estimated savings is about 30% (in line with what I've found at seemingly neutral internet sites about such projects. My last year energy cost was almost $3000, so that means $900 per year and a payback of just under 3.5 years. And that's assuming energy costs don't rise (and they will) so it will be closer to a 3 year payback.
After I get them to make some reductions in their quote, and given their Angieslist "A" rating on both quality of work AND price, I think I will just have them do the work without getting competitive bids. And there are a few smaller cost-effective things I can do myself...
I always prefer to take company salespeople out of their comfort zone (talking a lot off the record). Responding to email questions, they have to answer the questions and I have the email to read and re-read a few times to make sure I see what they are evading (if anything). And it gives me time to consider more questions.
For example, I've noticed they over-estimated my current annual bill by 20% (and I showed them my last 12 month bills), they overestimated my "conditioned" (meaning heated and cooled) residential square footage (added in my unheated garage as a "conditioned" area), added an extra exhaust fan to be sealed, etc.
So I will compose a list of questions for them to answer. They should be pleased. Their salesperson is 30 minuted away from me and planned a 30 minute visit to explain the quote. I'm helping them do it in about 10 minutes. Yes, I'm being a bit sarcastic... I was a salesman once and know the value of talking face-to-face, sliding around questions, and not have anything in writing except the actual contract (with all the fine print).
Mostly, I know what works for ME. I bought my last car by email, and it sure saved me a lot of time AND money. No sitting around while the salesman pretends to "see if I can get the Manager to go for this low deal". And with everything in writing, there were no "little surprise add-ons" afterwards. I got the car for $500 above the dealers actually cost (according to the Consumer Reports Car Report I bought for $12). And the car will be 10 years old In October. So I like negotiating at a distance.
Back to the energy savings quote... The total quote is for $5100 (with a $2000 subsidy from my electrical supplier bringing it to $3100). The estimated savings is about 30% (in line with what I've found at seemingly neutral internet sites about such projects. My last year energy cost was almost $3000, so that means $900 per year and a payback of just under 3.5 years. And that's assuming energy costs don't rise (and they will) so it will be closer to a 3 year payback.
After I get them to make some reductions in their quote, and given their Angieslist "A" rating on both quality of work AND price, I think I will just have them do the work without getting competitive bids. And there are a few smaller cost-effective things I can do myself...
Monday, July 28, 2014
28 Year Old House Renovation Plans
I've sure been doin some research and talking to contractors (and checking with subsidy programs from my electrical supplier lately)! I have pages of notes. And I am darn near worn out just trying to combine all the possibilities.
The various contractors all promise 30% energy use reductions in just a few years. Well, if I believed them all, I wouldn't be paying ANYTHING for electricity or water in just 3 years. R I I G H T !
The electrical supplier site suggests I can reduce my bill 30-50% with 5-8 year paybacks. The Govt sites say about the same. Those seem more reasonable and trustable. So I could save $1,000-$1500 per year by spending $8,000 now. Seems reasonable.
The best savings seem to come from...
1. Attic blown insulation (gaining from R-12 to R-49).
2. Attic baffles directing outside soffit heat to the roof vent.
3. Basement blown insulation.
4. Expanding/Sealant around the the attic and basement edges.
5. Having the ducts scraped clean to improve air flow.
6. Installing a low blow attic fan.
7. Having the existing heat pump tuned.
An almost none of that was what I expected when I started to investigate this. I thought it would be all new triple-pane windows and door weatherstripping!
I've learned otherwise... Its all about proper insulation. The standard batted stuff is crap. It never fits tightly, and it never does the job. But it is cheap for the builders and looks good.
My house is totally electric. The average bill is $220 per month. Which isn't horrible. But if I stay here 10 years (and I probably will), I could save a few thousand $ in some simple ways. Items 1-4 +6 seem like the way to go for me.
But I'm still having a few geothermal companies come by for estimates. That could save LOTS in 20 years. More a selling point than an advantage I will see. But I may stay here long enough, so who knows? And I like the idea, personally and ideologically.
The various contractors all promise 30% energy use reductions in just a few years. Well, if I believed them all, I wouldn't be paying ANYTHING for electricity or water in just 3 years. R I I G H T !
The electrical supplier site suggests I can reduce my bill 30-50% with 5-8 year paybacks. The Govt sites say about the same. Those seem more reasonable and trustable. So I could save $1,000-$1500 per year by spending $8,000 now. Seems reasonable.
The best savings seem to come from...
1. Attic blown insulation (gaining from R-12 to R-49).
2. Attic baffles directing outside soffit heat to the roof vent.
3. Basement blown insulation.
4. Expanding/Sealant around the the attic and basement edges.
5. Having the ducts scraped clean to improve air flow.
6. Installing a low blow attic fan.
7. Having the existing heat pump tuned.
An almost none of that was what I expected when I started to investigate this. I thought it would be all new triple-pane windows and door weatherstripping!
I've learned otherwise... Its all about proper insulation. The standard batted stuff is crap. It never fits tightly, and it never does the job. But it is cheap for the builders and looks good.
My house is totally electric. The average bill is $220 per month. Which isn't horrible. But if I stay here 10 years (and I probably will), I could save a few thousand $ in some simple ways. Items 1-4 +6 seem like the way to go for me.
But I'm still having a few geothermal companies come by for estimates. That could save LOTS in 20 years. More a selling point than an advantage I will see. But I may stay here long enough, so who knows? And I like the idea, personally and ideologically.
Saturday, July 26, 2014
Thursday 13
You Are In Late Middle Age When...
1. You go out to call all the cats in at dusk and they line up at the deck door. From INSIDE!
2. You read a comic strip about twerking and your not quite sure what they are talking about.
3. You research something on the internet and you realize you are following links in a circle after seeing the same one a third time.
4. The Houdini wine bottle cork screw remover "works" but you have to take the cork off the screw manually.
5. You side with all the middle-aged comic strip characters and only "sort of" get the joke.
6. You don't listen to your old CDs any more. The songs are all earworms anyway.
7. You get out of bed in the morning wondering which joint will "feel odd" when your feet hit the floor.
8. You go to bed not because you are tired, but because you are bored.
9. You buy some sports thing because "I used to do that".
10. You keep product boxes in the attic because you might move and they would be perfect for packing those things up. And you threw those products away 10 years ago.
11. You haven't gone out to celebrate New Years Eve because, well, who wants to stay up that late, really?
12. Conversely, you decide that celebrating New Years Morning really makes more sense.
13. You make lists about being Late Middle Aged...
1. You go out to call all the cats in at dusk and they line up at the deck door. From INSIDE!
2. You read a comic strip about twerking and your not quite sure what they are talking about.
3. You research something on the internet and you realize you are following links in a circle after seeing the same one a third time.
4. The Houdini wine bottle cork screw remover "works" but you have to take the cork off the screw manually.
5. You side with all the middle-aged comic strip characters and only "sort of" get the joke.
6. You don't listen to your old CDs any more. The songs are all earworms anyway.
7. You get out of bed in the morning wondering which joint will "feel odd" when your feet hit the floor.
8. You go to bed not because you are tired, but because you are bored.
9. You buy some sports thing because "I used to do that".
10. You keep product boxes in the attic because you might move and they would be perfect for packing those things up. And you threw those products away 10 years ago.
11. You haven't gone out to celebrate New Years Eve because, well, who wants to stay up that late, really?
12. Conversely, you decide that celebrating New Years Morning really makes more sense.
13. You make lists about being Late Middle Aged...
Thursday, July 24, 2014
Next Project
I haven't forgotten about the chicken wire garden enclosure, but I'm trying to find a rentable trencher machine to do the hard work. Now rush now; its late in the garden season, so anything I built will be for next year. And I've adjusted so that I have some veggies growing in the flowerbed areas usually reserved for flowers.
I'm calling it a semi-lost season. I do have some nice tomatoes growing.
And I dug out an old flowerbed where nothing much was growing to plant cukes and flat italian beans. I've stuck 4 bell peppers around too. I'll get by this year.
But since I have to wait a week for the quote of the house air leakage job, I'm on to a new project that I can do fast.
The sunken patio has walls (duh, "sunken") but the lawn slopes sideways to it. And the new deck posts are 3' beyond the patio walls. Looks like a great place to plant shade-loving plants if I frame it so that it is leveled.
That's one reason I took pieces of "junk" deck wood aside. There are 3' pieces of 2"x12" boards which can frame the lowest end and 2"x6" boards that will work the long ways. Don't worry about the details, just accept it means I can box a sloped area with free leftovers.
And since the deer have discovered my front yard hostas (after almost 10 years) and eaten all the leaves, it is time to change them out for deer-resistant plants (and I have a perfect one - more below). So where do the front yard hostas go? Well, in the new framed area I am making, shaded by the deck of course! Every problem has an elegant solution waiting to be discovered.
The front yard box will become Snow On The Mountain (a variegated 12" tall foliage groundcover that loves shade) and daffodils (neither of which deer eat). The hostas will be moved to the back yard which has a 6' fence the local deer have never jumped over.
Pictures later as I assemble the framed bed and move the hostas.
Always try to do something useful every day...
I'm calling it a semi-lost season. I do have some nice tomatoes growing.
And I dug out an old flowerbed where nothing much was growing to plant cukes and flat italian beans. I've stuck 4 bell peppers around too. I'll get by this year.
But since I have to wait a week for the quote of the house air leakage job, I'm on to a new project that I can do fast.
The sunken patio has walls (duh, "sunken") but the lawn slopes sideways to it. And the new deck posts are 3' beyond the patio walls. Looks like a great place to plant shade-loving plants if I frame it so that it is leveled.
That's one reason I took pieces of "junk" deck wood aside. There are 3' pieces of 2"x12" boards which can frame the lowest end and 2"x6" boards that will work the long ways. Don't worry about the details, just accept it means I can box a sloped area with free leftovers.
And since the deer have discovered my front yard hostas (after almost 10 years) and eaten all the leaves, it is time to change them out for deer-resistant plants (and I have a perfect one - more below). So where do the front yard hostas go? Well, in the new framed area I am making, shaded by the deck of course! Every problem has an elegant solution waiting to be discovered.
The front yard box will become Snow On The Mountain (a variegated 12" tall foliage groundcover that loves shade) and daffodils (neither of which deer eat). The hostas will be moved to the back yard which has a 6' fence the local deer have never jumped over.
Pictures later as I assemble the framed bed and move the hostas.
Always try to do something useful every day...
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Happy Holiday
MAY YOU ALL HAVE A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY!