Well, before I can rebuild the beds in the garden, the existing ones have to come out. I've been avoiding that. I hate to take things apart. But after 28 years, that's what I need to do with the old garden beds, the deck, etc.
So I started on the easy parts. Not the easiest to tear apart, but the ones I felt least invested with. The tree and rose box went first. I've glad I have a few serious crowbars. The 2' one worked best. It was heavy enough to swing through the vines and brambles to get them out of the way, but thin enough to wedge between the screwed 2"x4" boards.
Could I have simply unscrewed the boards? Maybe, but after over 20 years, there probably wasn't much screwhead to grab. Wedging seemed easier. They are just going to a landfill anyway. So I got two 4'x4' boxes pulled apart just to see how hard it might be.
Easy-peasy...
I cut down the 6" wire trellis remesh a couple weeks ago to force myself to continue the project. And the old 4"x4" posts that held up the trellis broke with just a little pushing. Heck, one post was only standing because I pounded in a pipe next to it and put long screws through the pipe into the post. I can see that the 2'x32' box under the removed trellis will be easy enough to tear apart too. Well, yeah, if you need to force yourself to continue a project, tear out the useful parts first. After that, you either have to rebuilt them or continue.
Next step is to see how hard it is to cut through tree roots above ground and remove them. I can chop them with an axe near the fence line and then wedge them up. I have to do that because above-ground tree roots would not allow me to build new level framed beds otherwise. I sure wish I was 35 again!!! Removing those tree roots is going to take a whole day at 63.
But when those roots are removed, I can take apart the remaining existing framed beds. They will come apart easily; they are barely hanging together as it is.
Then I need to move all the existing soil. I'm not looking forward to that. I have to move it to SOMEWHERE outside of the new site because its good soil and I want to move it back to the new beds I'll build when the site is cleared and leveled. The hard part is that I am basically going to be digging up all my garden soil, dumping it on a HUGE tarp, then digging it up again after the new beds are built.
I'm serious about thinking it might be easier to just move and start fresh. But then there would be all that packing in the house. And yes, it would be cheaper to just buy fresh produce for the rest of my life. But this is a HOBBY, and hobbies never save money, LOL!
Just watch, I'll do all this work and then decide to move ANYWAY...
Monday, April 21, 2014
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
Grafting Tomatoes
I'd been hesitating about trying this grafting of heirloom tomato tops onto hybrid roots. The benefits seem genuine (vigorous and disease-resistant roots growing complexly-flavorful heirloom tomatoes). But it seemed complicated. Growing rootstock and heirloom tomatoes so the stem sizes matched, cutting both the stems so that the cuts matched, fastening a small soft silicon clip to hold the pieces together, creating an enclosed humidified recovery, etc.
I knew I wanted to try it, but I don't have "soft steady hands" and some of the humidifying arrangements I saw on the internet seemed elaborate, but I thought about it all for a while.
Well, it was certainly easy enough to plant enough hybrid and heirloom tomatoes for both grafting AND backups in case all the grafts failed. I found the silicon clips at several sites and ordered some a month ago. I had stumbled across a 4-shelf plant stand with a zippered plastic enclosure for keeping plants warm outside and I realized that it was a fine humidifier device if I filled the lower 3 shelves with pans of water (later).
I had a razor Exacto knife) for cutting the stems. I even had a 4" piece of wood cut at a 45 degree angle left over from the trailer work! My goodness, I had everything I needed!
So with the trailer work complete and it being a rainy day, I collected everything on the basement workbench (and after some thought through the procedures, brought a few things upstairs to a table with good light).
It seemed to me the pattern was to transplant the hybrid rootstocks from little 6-packs to individual 3" pots to allow root growth, bring them all upstairs with the silicon clips and razor blade, fill the lower plant stand shelves with pans of water, and then make sure I had enough labels for all the new grafted heirloom tops.
That's when I realized I had made a serious mistake. I hadn't examined the silicon clips carefully when the y arrived. They are an "8" shape, but with one"o" larger than the other (like a snowman bottom and a snowman head). I had assumed the larger "o" was for the tomato stems. NOPE! The clipping part was the small "o", and about as thin as pencil lead. I should have done the grafting when the tomato seedlings were about 3" high, not 9"!
So I tried something creative and resourceful. I used the larger "O" part! I eyeballed the spot on the rootstocks where the stem size matched the "O" and cut a 45 degree angle above that.
Then fit the silicon clip ofer the cut stem and slid it down to where it was snug. Made a new cut just above that. Then I eyeballed the heirloom tops ("scions") and cut below that to be careful.
Testing the fit, I cut the scion stem narrower until it "just" fit into the "O" and matched the angles snugly.
I hope that all makes sense. I used the silicon clips to measure the matching stem diameter and set them together at the matching angled cuts.
To make sure I didn't confuse the heirloom tops, I only brought one variety upstairs at a time , and made sure I had enough (and only enough) variety labels for each. Because when you cut off the tops of the rootstock tomatoes and the tops of the heirloom tomatoes, they sure look a lot the same!
The other surprise was how FAST the grafted heirloom tops just wilted!
I did not realize how FAST plants transpire. In just 15 minutes, the first grafted tops had wilted right over like cooked lettuce! The enclosed humidity and darkness of the recovery chamber is supposed to help with that. I I think I will also spray the tops several times per day. The tomato grafting sites say the grafts need about a week of darkness along with the humidity, so after I zippered the plastic cover, I tossed a sheet over the whole stand.
Wish me luck!
And the first concern is resolved. The enclosed stand with the pans of water on the other shelves caused the plastic cover to fog up within just 2 hours. So the humidity is high. And below the stand is a thick towel on a sheet of plastic so the drip won't damage the wood floor. I may not think of everything in a new project, but I sure try!
I'll have some idea about the success in a few days. If the grafted tops are more erect in a few days, it means they are receiving moisture from the roots and the graft is healing. If I recall enough from high school botany, the zylem and floem (one sends nutrients up and the other down) will be working and the connection between rootstock and scion top will be solid.
And if they fail? Well, I have enough heirloom seedling and 2 Big Beef hybrids for the standard plantings of past years. I'm no worse off.
But my big surprise is that it seems a lot easier that I feared. It just took trying it to do it.
I knew I wanted to try it, but I don't have "soft steady hands" and some of the humidifying arrangements I saw on the internet seemed elaborate, but I thought about it all for a while.
Well, it was certainly easy enough to plant enough hybrid and heirloom tomatoes for both grafting AND backups in case all the grafts failed. I found the silicon clips at several sites and ordered some a month ago. I had stumbled across a 4-shelf plant stand with a zippered plastic enclosure for keeping plants warm outside and I realized that it was a fine humidifier device if I filled the lower 3 shelves with pans of water (later).
So with the trailer work complete and it being a rainy day, I collected everything on the basement workbench (and after some thought through the procedures, brought a few things upstairs to a table with good light).
It seemed to me the pattern was to transplant the hybrid rootstocks from little 6-packs to individual 3" pots to allow root growth, bring them all upstairs with the silicon clips and razor blade, fill the lower plant stand shelves with pans of water, and then make sure I had enough labels for all the new grafted heirloom tops.
That's when I realized I had made a serious mistake. I hadn't examined the silicon clips carefully when the y arrived. They are an "8" shape, but with one"o" larger than the other (like a snowman bottom and a snowman head). I had assumed the larger "o" was for the tomato stems. NOPE! The clipping part was the small "o", and about as thin as pencil lead. I should have done the grafting when the tomato seedlings were about 3" high, not 9"!
So I tried something creative and resourceful. I used the larger "O" part! I eyeballed the spot on the rootstocks where the stem size matched the "O" and cut a 45 degree angle above that.
Testing the fit, I cut the scion stem narrower until it "just" fit into the "O" and matched the angles snugly.
To make sure I didn't confuse the heirloom tops, I only brought one variety upstairs at a time , and made sure I had enough (and only enough) variety labels for each. Because when you cut off the tops of the rootstock tomatoes and the tops of the heirloom tomatoes, they sure look a lot the same!
The other surprise was how FAST the grafted heirloom tops just wilted!
Wish me luck!
And the first concern is resolved. The enclosed stand with the pans of water on the other shelves caused the plastic cover to fog up within just 2 hours. So the humidity is high. And below the stand is a thick towel on a sheet of plastic so the drip won't damage the wood floor. I may not think of everything in a new project, but I sure try!
I'll have some idea about the success in a few days. If the grafted tops are more erect in a few days, it means they are receiving moisture from the roots and the graft is healing. If I recall enough from high school botany, the zylem and floem (one sends nutrients up and the other down) will be working and the connection between rootstock and scion top will be solid.
And if they fail? Well, I have enough heirloom seedling and 2 Big Beef hybrids for the standard plantings of past years. I'm no worse off.
But my big surprise is that it seems a lot easier that I feared. It just took trying it to do it.
Monday, April 14, 2014
Trailer Pictures!
Sometimes, it is just best to show the methods and final results...
Obsessive featherboards...
Dado blades...
The tablesaw
Output, LOL!
Sides...
Capped tops and back panel...
Sad part. I just couldn't get the back corners to match. After a bad measurement, that was what I have to live with.
But the whole thing is going to be functional for the next 20 years, so... OK.
Obsessive featherboards...
Trailer!
Pictures, as promised...
Like in any project, I could do it a bit better a second time, but, "twill serve, twill serve".
Saturday, April 12, 2014
Trailer Completus
FINALLY!
Sometimes things that seem so simple are surprisingly complicated. I sure learned (re-learned?) that this past 2 weeks.
It seemed simple. Put plywood sides on a metal framed hauling trailer. Put tops on the exposed plywood top edges. Big deal. Um, not quite.
Yuo remember the Six Million Doolar Man where "they" could make him betteer faster and all that? Right... It doesn't go that easy even with simpler things. All I wanted to do was put sides on the trailer and top the plywood edges on the top so they wouldn't rot so quickly. And the idea is to make the trailer so that sand won't fall out as I drive home from the landscape supply place. Not that I buy a lot of sand, but if sand won't fall out, mulch won't and I do buy a lot of mulch.
The sides were easy. Sort of. I bought two 4'x8' panels of T1-11 exterior plywood siding. The stuff is great. Stable, solid, straight. I had the lumber store cut the sheets in 20" lengths (there are more details but I won't bore you with those). And I bought 2"x'4"x8' boards. Home I went...
The first problem I re-discovered (I probably learned this when I originally did the sides 20 years ago, but forgot) was that the metal frame around the trailer was NOT square in ANY direction. That means I had to craft the pieces into place. I made a few errors. I corrected the errors "pretty" well by hand sawing some cuts to the sides to accommodate the metal welding bumps, but I did a couple of sawings that I shouldn't have done. At least they were small errors.
After I got the sides to fit, I got at the 2x4 tops. That was trickier than I thought. I knew I could cut dadoes (stacked saw blades that make a thick cut -5/8" [20/32"] in this case) on my table saw to fit the 19/32" plywood. It would have worked great except that the plywood was a bit curvy along the entire length. Not much to see by eye, but the dado cuts sure could tell.
It took two more days to get the dado cuts to fit over the plywood edge tops. And THEN I had to adjust all the lengths to fit exactly. Did I mention I wanted all the corners to join with miter cuts?
And the back panel has to be removable. There are 2 rectangular welded shapes that are supposed to pit a 2x4 set into them. They don't, of course. The inside edges are curved. So I had to shape 2x4 pieces to fit inside lossely enough to go in and out easily but also fit tightly enough to remove easily.
That took an hour. And then I had to attach those pieces to the back sheet squarely enough so they both matched the rectangle metal fittings AND were firmly attached to the back. That was easy enough except I had to go back into the basement several times for more tools.
If I did this more often than every 20 years, it would be a lot easier. I almost wish a neighbor would come over now and ask me if I had any experience at doing this. I sure do now!
Tomorrow, pictures!
Sometimes things that seem so simple are surprisingly complicated. I sure learned (re-learned?) that this past 2 weeks.
It seemed simple. Put plywood sides on a metal framed hauling trailer. Put tops on the exposed plywood top edges. Big deal. Um, not quite.
Yuo remember the Six Million Doolar Man where "they" could make him betteer faster and all that? Right... It doesn't go that easy even with simpler things. All I wanted to do was put sides on the trailer and top the plywood edges on the top so they wouldn't rot so quickly. And the idea is to make the trailer so that sand won't fall out as I drive home from the landscape supply place. Not that I buy a lot of sand, but if sand won't fall out, mulch won't and I do buy a lot of mulch.
The sides were easy. Sort of. I bought two 4'x8' panels of T1-11 exterior plywood siding. The stuff is great. Stable, solid, straight. I had the lumber store cut the sheets in 20" lengths (there are more details but I won't bore you with those). And I bought 2"x'4"x8' boards. Home I went...
The first problem I re-discovered (I probably learned this when I originally did the sides 20 years ago, but forgot) was that the metal frame around the trailer was NOT square in ANY direction. That means I had to craft the pieces into place. I made a few errors. I corrected the errors "pretty" well by hand sawing some cuts to the sides to accommodate the metal welding bumps, but I did a couple of sawings that I shouldn't have done. At least they were small errors.
After I got the sides to fit, I got at the 2x4 tops. That was trickier than I thought. I knew I could cut dadoes (stacked saw blades that make a thick cut -5/8" [20/32"] in this case) on my table saw to fit the 19/32" plywood. It would have worked great except that the plywood was a bit curvy along the entire length. Not much to see by eye, but the dado cuts sure could tell.
It took two more days to get the dado cuts to fit over the plywood edge tops. And THEN I had to adjust all the lengths to fit exactly. Did I mention I wanted all the corners to join with miter cuts?
And the back panel has to be removable. There are 2 rectangular welded shapes that are supposed to pit a 2x4 set into them. They don't, of course. The inside edges are curved. So I had to shape 2x4 pieces to fit inside lossely enough to go in and out easily but also fit tightly enough to remove easily.
That took an hour. And then I had to attach those pieces to the back sheet squarely enough so they both matched the rectangle metal fittings AND were firmly attached to the back. That was easy enough except I had to go back into the basement several times for more tools.
If I did this more often than every 20 years, it would be a lot easier. I almost wish a neighbor would come over now and ask me if I had any experience at doing this. I sure do now!
Tomorrow, pictures!
Saturday, April 5, 2014
Ah First Things First...
Well, to get the supplies I need for the enclosed garden, I need the hauling trailer renovated. The old 20 yer-old wood sides rotted out. I got new T1-11 sides cut to height and length.
I worked on the front and back yesterday. The sides of the trailer aren't exactly square, so I measured the top and bottom of the front side and put a square against the sides to estimate the unsquareness. Then realized it doesn't matter because there is an inch of metal frame in each corner.
Still, I want to make good joints for personal reasons, and I did. Even with slight angles, no edge came out more than 1/16' of matching the corners. So they matched that tolerance. The back hs a strange brace that matched a 2"x4" board IF you sand it down at the corners, and I have the pieces cut to length for that but not yet crafted carefully to size.
But it DOES mean that the trailer will be ready to haul 23 10' pipes in a couple days and 12 rolls of chicken wire shortly after that.
I looked at rental equipment for making the holes the upright pipes will sit in. An auger costs $100 for 4 hours; a trencher something like $281 for 4 hours. Looks like crowbar and post-hole-digging work for my. Well, I only need 9 holes! I can manage that. It would take that long just to drive to the store, rent the machine, drive back, unload it, set it up, use it, etc, and do the reverse.
I'll still hate pounding through rocky gravel...
I worked on the front and back yesterday. The sides of the trailer aren't exactly square, so I measured the top and bottom of the front side and put a square against the sides to estimate the unsquareness. Then realized it doesn't matter because there is an inch of metal frame in each corner.
Still, I want to make good joints for personal reasons, and I did. Even with slight angles, no edge came out more than 1/16' of matching the corners. So they matched that tolerance. The back hs a strange brace that matched a 2"x4" board IF you sand it down at the corners, and I have the pieces cut to length for that but not yet crafted carefully to size.
But it DOES mean that the trailer will be ready to haul 23 10' pipes in a couple days and 12 rolls of chicken wire shortly after that.
I looked at rental equipment for making the holes the upright pipes will sit in. An auger costs $100 for 4 hours; a trencher something like $281 for 4 hours. Looks like crowbar and post-hole-digging work for my. Well, I only need 9 holes! I can manage that. It would take that long just to drive to the store, rent the machine, drive back, unload it, set it up, use it, etc, and do the reverse.
I'll still hate pounding through rocky gravel...
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Garden Layout
Megan asked why the garden beds "should be true square feet". A good question.
There is a home gardening system by Mel Bartholomew based on planting home crops by square feet. Generally, I have used it. It works by rotating crops through square feet, never letting any space be unused. It works, but you have to keep at it. A square foot of radishes, a square foot of carrots, etc. You learn the best spacing for crops. 16 radishes per square foot, 9 carrots, etc. It does make easy planting. As I understand it, it is an adaptation of French Intensive Row Planting.
I try to keep at it, but it takes planning. Still, I want my framed beds to be in true square feet of interior size. The interior size is the problem. The boards you use to make the framed bed take up some space. So you have to use boards that are longer by their thickness.
It isn't TOO complicated. To make a 4'x4' soil framed bed, you need boards that are 4' 1.5 inches on all sides because the boards are 1.5" thick. If you just use exactly 4' boards, some of the last squares are 12"'x9" (12" -[1.5"x2]).
So in my framed bed plans, I have to make the the framed boards a few inches larger than the square feet. An 8'x4' bed actually has to have boards 8' 3" and 4' 3". It makes the details a bit insane!
Fortunately, there are some shortcuts. If there are 4 beds (8 boards total), then that takes 12" of space (8*1.5"). If I didn't take that in to account, then the paths between the beds would be too small for my 24" wide wheelbarrow,
Properly arranged, my beds allow my wheelbarrow. An inch wrong, it doesn't. So, my constructed beds must have outside dimensions larger than the true square feet inside but allow the wheelbarrow just barely.
I hope that all makes sense.
And Megan, you sent me your email once but I lost it, Would you send it again? cavebear2118 AT verizon DOT net...
There is a home gardening system by Mel Bartholomew based on planting home crops by square feet. Generally, I have used it. It works by rotating crops through square feet, never letting any space be unused. It works, but you have to keep at it. A square foot of radishes, a square foot of carrots, etc. You learn the best spacing for crops. 16 radishes per square foot, 9 carrots, etc. It does make easy planting. As I understand it, it is an adaptation of French Intensive Row Planting.
I try to keep at it, but it takes planning. Still, I want my framed beds to be in true square feet of interior size. The interior size is the problem. The boards you use to make the framed bed take up some space. So you have to use boards that are longer by their thickness.
It isn't TOO complicated. To make a 4'x4' soil framed bed, you need boards that are 4' 1.5 inches on all sides because the boards are 1.5" thick. If you just use exactly 4' boards, some of the last squares are 12"'x9" (12" -[1.5"x2]).
So in my framed bed plans, I have to make the the framed boards a few inches larger than the square feet. An 8'x4' bed actually has to have boards 8' 3" and 4' 3". It makes the details a bit insane!
Fortunately, there are some shortcuts. If there are 4 beds (8 boards total), then that takes 12" of space (8*1.5"). If I didn't take that in to account, then the paths between the beds would be too small for my 24" wide wheelbarrow,
Properly arranged, my beds allow my wheelbarrow. An inch wrong, it doesn't. So, my constructed beds must have outside dimensions larger than the true square feet inside but allow the wheelbarrow just barely.
I hope that all makes sense.
And Megan, you sent me your email once but I lost it, Would you send it again? cavebear2118 AT verizon DOT net...
Trailer Re-Siding
Before I can get the pipes, bulk chicken wire, and then additional compost/soil for the garden enclosure, I have to have the trailer renovated. I started on that back in last Summer with pressure-treated plywood to cover the sides and base, but the plywood layers separated and warped on the sides, was too high, and too thin for good stability. All around, a seemingly good choice of material that didn't work.
Well, "almost" didn't work. It did fine screwed down onto the boards that make up the bottom of the trailer. I covered those with plywood because the original individual boards have gaps between them that let sand/dirt/compost fall through unless I covered them with a plastic tarp. And when you shovel the contents out, you tear up the tarp. At $10 per tarp, I got tired of that fast (and repairing tears with duct tape isn't free either).
So last week, I decided to go back to what DID work; T1-11 Exterior Plywood Siding. The previous sides lasted 15 years before starting to rot, and the stuff is very stable and strong. I should have just stayed with that last Summer. I guess I figured pressure treated plywood would last even longer.
So last week, I started planning for T1-11 plywood. I went to Home Depot and they didn't have any of the T1-11 in the thickness I wanted (it comes in basically 3/8" and 5/8" thick) and I wanted the thicker for strength. Three days later, they also did not have it. Today I went and I was annoyed enough to find a helpful employee to ask. He said, that if the plywood wasn't on the shelves, they probably didn't have it in stock.
I suggested that maybe there was some "in the back" or newly delivered. But as I said that, I looked WAY UP at the top of the stacks, a good 20 feet up an saw a carboard-covered box that suggested it was the stuff I wanted. 19/32nds thick (seriously, who would make anything 19/32nds? It must actually be metric). Then a look from the side showed the other dimensions I wanted.
I won't say the senior lumber guy wasn't exactly upset to have to get that stuff down from the top, but he didn't thank me for the opportunity either. Well, he got to use a BIG DAMN FORKLIFT and most guys would enjoy that. Other employees gathered around to watch (they don't get to use that cool stuff). I don't want to spoil any "guyness" here, but I'm not impressed. He had only 3 controls: A steering wheel, the fork up and down, and a slight forward adjustment to the fork. My mouse is that complicated. And he screwed it up the first 2 tries! And he was the senior person...
OK, eventually, he got the pallet of the plywood I wanted down to the sales-level bin. I told him I wanted 2 sheets and I wanted them cut. I should explain the cutting.
I wanted the sides of the trailer 18" high. But that's tricky with T1-11 because it has a tongue and groove edges (like half-laps depending on your familiarity with terms).
I had the lumber guy use the coolest saw I ever saw... Its a circular saw on a pipe grid that works both vertically AND horizontally, with rollers at the bottom so the large plywood panels slide smoothly.
I ended up with four 8'x18" pieces and 2 scraps I will find a use for later. I was initially worried about securing the pieces on the trailer, but then I realized the could fit corner to opposite corner.
Back home, I set the 2 long sides of the 8' plywood strips along the 8" side of the metal frame and drilled holes through the wood to attach them with 1/4" bolt and fender washers on the inside, and lock washers and wing nuts (for easy re-tightening) on the outside. That took care of the sides.
The front and removable back will take some more exact cuts. It will be important that the front and back make good contact with the sides so I can't lose material at the corners. Fotunately, when I put the old back in place, it fit perfectly, so I know what size to cut the new T1-11. The front part will require so detailed fitting. Well, the last part always needs details work.
And the forecast is for 2 days of heavy rain, so I brought all the side pieces into the garage. I'm guessing Tuesday is when I can bring the pieces out to the trailer for correct fitting.
Then I can use the trailer to get the pipes and chicken wire for the enclosed garden. I always say
something else has to be done first" on any project, and this is proof. LOL!
Well, "almost" didn't work. It did fine screwed down onto the boards that make up the bottom of the trailer. I covered those with plywood because the original individual boards have gaps between them that let sand/dirt/compost fall through unless I covered them with a plastic tarp. And when you shovel the contents out, you tear up the tarp. At $10 per tarp, I got tired of that fast (and repairing tears with duct tape isn't free either).
So last week, I decided to go back to what DID work; T1-11 Exterior Plywood Siding. The previous sides lasted 15 years before starting to rot, and the stuff is very stable and strong. I should have just stayed with that last Summer. I guess I figured pressure treated plywood would last even longer.
So last week, I started planning for T1-11 plywood. I went to Home Depot and they didn't have any of the T1-11 in the thickness I wanted (it comes in basically 3/8" and 5/8" thick) and I wanted the thicker for strength. Three days later, they also did not have it. Today I went and I was annoyed enough to find a helpful employee to ask. He said, that if the plywood wasn't on the shelves, they probably didn't have it in stock.
I suggested that maybe there was some "in the back" or newly delivered. But as I said that, I looked WAY UP at the top of the stacks, a good 20 feet up an saw a carboard-covered box that suggested it was the stuff I wanted. 19/32nds thick (seriously, who would make anything 19/32nds? It must actually be metric). Then a look from the side showed the other dimensions I wanted.
I won't say the senior lumber guy wasn't exactly upset to have to get that stuff down from the top, but he didn't thank me for the opportunity either. Well, he got to use a BIG DAMN FORKLIFT and most guys would enjoy that. Other employees gathered around to watch (they don't get to use that cool stuff). I don't want to spoil any "guyness" here, but I'm not impressed. He had only 3 controls: A steering wheel, the fork up and down, and a slight forward adjustment to the fork. My mouse is that complicated. And he screwed it up the first 2 tries! And he was the senior person...
OK, eventually, he got the pallet of the plywood I wanted down to the sales-level bin. I told him I wanted 2 sheets and I wanted them cut. I should explain the cutting.
I wanted the sides of the trailer 18" high. But that's tricky with T1-11 because it has a tongue and groove edges (like half-laps depending on your familiarity with terms).
I had the lumber guy use the coolest saw I ever saw... Its a circular saw on a pipe grid that works both vertically AND horizontally, with rollers at the bottom so the large plywood panels slide smoothly.
I ended up with four 8'x18" pieces and 2 scraps I will find a use for later. I was initially worried about securing the pieces on the trailer, but then I realized the could fit corner to opposite corner.
Back home, I set the 2 long sides of the 8' plywood strips along the 8" side of the metal frame and drilled holes through the wood to attach them with 1/4" bolt and fender washers on the inside, and lock washers and wing nuts (for easy re-tightening) on the outside. That took care of the sides.
The front and removable back will take some more exact cuts. It will be important that the front and back make good contact with the sides so I can't lose material at the corners. Fotunately, when I put the old back in place, it fit perfectly, so I know what size to cut the new T1-11. The front part will require so detailed fitting. Well, the last part always needs details work.
And the forecast is for 2 days of heavy rain, so I brought all the side pieces into the garage. I'm guessing Tuesday is when I can bring the pieces out to the trailer for correct fitting.
Then I can use the trailer to get the pipes and chicken wire for the enclosed garden. I always say
something else has to be done first" on any project, and this is proof. LOL!
Tuesday, March 25, 2014
Garden Enclosure 2
I love gardening. I love geometry. The two intersect when laying out framed beds in restricted space. Having decided that a 20'x20' enclosed space ought to be a reasonable size to built, I have been sketching out various sizes and arrangements of framed beds to but in that area.
The results have been both maddening and enjoyable. Maddening because there are possibly endless arrangements, and enjoyable because I love the challenge. In the process, I have developed some rules:
Primary Considerations:
1. 20'x20' total enclosed size
2. Paths between beds cannot be narrower than 2' (wheelbarrow access)
3. No part of a bed can be more than 2' from an edge (for easy digging and reaching access)
A. That means no bed can be wider than 4'
B. A 4' bed needs a path on both sides
4. Maximize growing square footage
5. Minimize pathway square footage
6. There has to be a support pole dead center in the 20'x20' enclosure and it can't be in a path (the 10' pipes need a center support)
7. Growing area in beds must be true square feet*
Secondary Considerations:
1. I won't walk on the framed bed soil, so beds must allow easy movement among them (no labyrinthine paths)
2. Boards cost money, so the fewer needed, the better.
3. Beds against the enclosure chicken wire allow some access to varmints
Observations:
1. Material costs count only once. Square feet of growing area is forever.
* Meaning the inside dimensions of the beds are whole feet, not the outside dimensions. That threw me for days when I calculated the square feet of the beds and the square feet of the paths and it wouldn't add up to 400 square feet (20'x20'). Boards have thickness, and it adds up! Nominal 2" boards are actually 1.5" thick, so 8 boards across 4 beds takes exactly 1 foot off the available space!
Anyone who wants to suggest some layouts is more than welcome to send some. My email address is right under the header.
The results have been both maddening and enjoyable. Maddening because there are possibly endless arrangements, and enjoyable because I love the challenge. In the process, I have developed some rules:
Primary Considerations:
1. 20'x20' total enclosed size
2. Paths between beds cannot be narrower than 2' (wheelbarrow access)
3. No part of a bed can be more than 2' from an edge (for easy digging and reaching access)
A. That means no bed can be wider than 4'
B. A 4' bed needs a path on both sides
4. Maximize growing square footage
5. Minimize pathway square footage
6. There has to be a support pole dead center in the 20'x20' enclosure and it can't be in a path (the 10' pipes need a center support)
7. Growing area in beds must be true square feet*
Secondary Considerations:
1. I won't walk on the framed bed soil, so beds must allow easy movement among them (no labyrinthine paths)
2. Boards cost money, so the fewer needed, the better.
3. Beds against the enclosure chicken wire allow some access to varmints
Observations:
1. Material costs count only once. Square feet of growing area is forever.
* Meaning the inside dimensions of the beds are whole feet, not the outside dimensions. That threw me for days when I calculated the square feet of the beds and the square feet of the paths and it wouldn't add up to 400 square feet (20'x20'). Boards have thickness, and it adds up! Nominal 2" boards are actually 1.5" thick, so 8 boards across 4 beds takes exactly 1 foot off the available space!
Anyone who wants to suggest some layouts is more than welcome to send some. My email address is right under the header.
Saturday, March 22, 2014
Enclosed Garden
After several years of increased varmint invasion, I have decided decided to take the bull by the horns (or more properly the squirrel by the tail) and exclude the little beastards entirely. I'm going to totally enclose my garden in 1" chicken wire.
My original (and technically "current") garden has a 32'x2' framed trellis, plus four 8'x3' beds and two 4'x4' beds. But over the years tree shading and invasive vine growth has reduced that to 12 feet of trellis, two 8x3s and two 4x4s. And they are over 20 years old, so the wood frames are rotting badly. With the need to rebuild the beds anyway, the varmint problems invited a serious solution.
First, let me assure you that I realize home gardening does not save money on food. It is a hobby (of great personal satisfaction) and no hobby saves money. Hobbyist fishermen don't get fish cheaper than can be gotten at the grocery stores, and the same is true for hunting. So if my plan seems to cost more money than its worth, don't be surprised.
Second, last year the squirrels (and possibly a groundhog and a rabbit or two) ate or pulled up almost all of my seedlings early and ate most of my ripening tomatoes and melons later. That was the last straw; I could either give up of double-down. I'm doubling down!
I started looking for structure ideas last Fall and found one site where a person had constructed an enclosed structure about 8'x10' using EMT pipes (thin metal pipe used to hold electrical wire underground) and chicken wire suspended over picture frame wire. I sketched out a few designs on that idea and realized it needed to be stronger for the 20'x20' size I wanted.
One thing I discovered was that PVC pipe fitting fit over EMT pipe quite tightly. So I figured out the kinds of connections I needed to build a 20'x20' grid of 1"x10' EMT pipes. There aren't metal connectors in complicated shapes like there are for PVC pipes, so that was great.
I ordered the PVC connections last week and they arrived a few days ago. But I wasn't committed to the structure until I started to take apart the existing framed beds. I started on that today. My 2'x32' trellis bed had 6" concrete remesh wire as the vertical support. That's the heavy wire grid they put into concrete driveways for strength. I use it for super-strong tomato cages and trellis material.
The act of commitment was to cut the trellis remesh wire off the posts supporting it. I have a tool called a "Sawz-All" that is basically an electric kitchen knife on steroids. It can cut wood or metal.
I unrolled 125' of heavy-duty extension cord out to the garden, plugged in the Sawzall and started cutting the concrete remesh from the trellis posts. It went easier than I thought. But there is ALWAYS some suprise to any part of a project. Well, the first half of the remesh grid came off fine and I propped it against the fence (it will be used later).
The second half was not so easy. Years of evil vines (some 3/4" thick) had the wire remesh locked down. It took a good 30 minutes to cut the vines loose. No matter how many I cut there were more from unexpected directions, so it took multiple tries to get it all loose. I finally got that half propped against the fence, but there is probably another hour of pruning to get all those interwoven vines cut out of the remesh.
So part is done. A small part. But a start is good and I have to continue now or there won't be any trellis to grow cucumbers, pole beans, etc on this year. The first part of destruction requires the remainder.
The next step is to pull up all the scrap carpet I've used to suppress weeds in the paths between the framed beds. I already know that there are many weeds growing through it, so pulling it up won't be easy. Then I have to take apart the framed beds themselves. That old lumber is all trash, but it will leave the good garden soil without support.
With Spring coming late, I don't have as much time as I expected to have to complete this project. Of course! Any normal year, I could have started this project in early March. THIS YEAR, we have more snow forecast for Wdnesday!
Basically, I have to set nine 10' EMT pipes in the ground 2' deep in a 3x3 grid and then connect them all at the top. I can dig individual holes but my test dig in the rocky clay soil was not promising to be easy. I could rent a power auger to drill holes. Or I can rent a power trencher to make a trench along the entire outside of the structure and then backfill the soil around the EMT pipes.
I may go with the trencher because I have some other uses for one. There are tree roots coming from neighbors' trees and I need to get them out because they are are making the ground unlevel and the new framed beds need to be on flat soil. But maybe I can cut them with an ax and pry them out with a steel bar easier. I'll have to give the latter a try first.
The last part of the project is to use the interior structure space as efficiently as possible. I have done some sketches and realized that my original layout of framed beds was very inefficient. Well, that didn't matter when I had the whole backyard. Now it matters. The most efficient 20'x20' section of the existing beds had 126 square feet of garden. The best 20'x20' section I have layed out so far has 224 sq ft with 2' wide paths.
A new post when I do more...
I'll be taking lots of pictures as I go on this. I can tell from doing internet searches that a lot of people want to do this but don't know how and will find my project. I don't have anything to show yet, but should soon.
My original (and technically "current") garden has a 32'x2' framed trellis, plus four 8'x3' beds and two 4'x4' beds. But over the years tree shading and invasive vine growth has reduced that to 12 feet of trellis, two 8x3s and two 4x4s. And they are over 20 years old, so the wood frames are rotting badly. With the need to rebuild the beds anyway, the varmint problems invited a serious solution.
First, let me assure you that I realize home gardening does not save money on food. It is a hobby (of great personal satisfaction) and no hobby saves money. Hobbyist fishermen don't get fish cheaper than can be gotten at the grocery stores, and the same is true for hunting. So if my plan seems to cost more money than its worth, don't be surprised.
Second, last year the squirrels (and possibly a groundhog and a rabbit or two) ate or pulled up almost all of my seedlings early and ate most of my ripening tomatoes and melons later. That was the last straw; I could either give up of double-down. I'm doubling down!
I started looking for structure ideas last Fall and found one site where a person had constructed an enclosed structure about 8'x10' using EMT pipes (thin metal pipe used to hold electrical wire underground) and chicken wire suspended over picture frame wire. I sketched out a few designs on that idea and realized it needed to be stronger for the 20'x20' size I wanted.
One thing I discovered was that PVC pipe fitting fit over EMT pipe quite tightly. So I figured out the kinds of connections I needed to build a 20'x20' grid of 1"x10' EMT pipes. There aren't metal connectors in complicated shapes like there are for PVC pipes, so that was great.
I ordered the PVC connections last week and they arrived a few days ago. But I wasn't committed to the structure until I started to take apart the existing framed beds. I started on that today. My 2'x32' trellis bed had 6" concrete remesh wire as the vertical support. That's the heavy wire grid they put into concrete driveways for strength. I use it for super-strong tomato cages and trellis material.
The act of commitment was to cut the trellis remesh wire off the posts supporting it. I have a tool called a "Sawz-All" that is basically an electric kitchen knife on steroids. It can cut wood or metal.
The second half was not so easy. Years of evil vines (some 3/4" thick) had the wire remesh locked down. It took a good 30 minutes to cut the vines loose. No matter how many I cut there were more from unexpected directions, so it took multiple tries to get it all loose. I finally got that half propped against the fence, but there is probably another hour of pruning to get all those interwoven vines cut out of the remesh.
So part is done. A small part. But a start is good and I have to continue now or there won't be any trellis to grow cucumbers, pole beans, etc on this year. The first part of destruction requires the remainder.
The next step is to pull up all the scrap carpet I've used to suppress weeds in the paths between the framed beds. I already know that there are many weeds growing through it, so pulling it up won't be easy. Then I have to take apart the framed beds themselves. That old lumber is all trash, but it will leave the good garden soil without support.
With Spring coming late, I don't have as much time as I expected to have to complete this project. Of course! Any normal year, I could have started this project in early March. THIS YEAR, we have more snow forecast for Wdnesday!
Basically, I have to set nine 10' EMT pipes in the ground 2' deep in a 3x3 grid and then connect them all at the top. I can dig individual holes but my test dig in the rocky clay soil was not promising to be easy. I could rent a power auger to drill holes. Or I can rent a power trencher to make a trench along the entire outside of the structure and then backfill the soil around the EMT pipes.
I may go with the trencher because I have some other uses for one. There are tree roots coming from neighbors' trees and I need to get them out because they are are making the ground unlevel and the new framed beds need to be on flat soil. But maybe I can cut them with an ax and pry them out with a steel bar easier. I'll have to give the latter a try first.
The last part of the project is to use the interior structure space as efficiently as possible. I have done some sketches and realized that my original layout of framed beds was very inefficient. Well, that didn't matter when I had the whole backyard. Now it matters. The most efficient 20'x20' section of the existing beds had 126 square feet of garden. The best 20'x20' section I have layed out so far has 224 sq ft with 2' wide paths.
A new post when I do more...
I'll be taking lots of pictures as I go on this. I can tell from doing internet searches that a lot of people want to do this but don't know how and will find my project. I don't have anything to show yet, but should soon.
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
New Cosmos TV Show
If you are like me, you worry when you read that some Hollywood type is going to make a movie of your favorite book, or old comic mag, or a remake of an older favorite movie. I went through the 60s to 80s with bad results from Hollywood. The first Dune movie was horrid, and I still have horrible thoughts about 'Howard The Duck'. When the first Marvel Comics movies were announced, I prepared to cringe. But they came off well, as did The Lord Of The Ring and I sure never expected they could do THAT right.
Somewhere along the years, Hollywood realized that a good book (or even comic book) could make a good movie "as is". Even the slight changes in the movies were well done.
So I've come to expect decent adaptations from Hollywood. But I was still worried when I read that someone was remaking 'Cosmos', the outstanding "Life, The Universe, and Everything" of my younger years. I was relieved to read that Niel DeGrasse Tyson would be the host. A decade ago, I thought that he could do that, but doubted it would ever be done.
Some themes can be redone wonderfully. "West Side Story' was a wonderful adaptation of 'Romeo and Juliet'. "The Wiz' was a great redo of The Wizard of Oz'. And I'm sure Movie majors in college would name many "redos" of Shakespeare. But good "redos" were few and far between.
'Cosmos" appears to be a great "redo", and Mr. Tyson after the first 2 episodes. Tyson has the best relaxed and yet enthusiastic approach to science since Sagan, he doesn't drown you in professional terminology, and he just makes things sound exciting.
No "redo" would be good if the "redo" was just a copycat of the original. There are differences between Sagan and Tyson. Sagan came across as someone talking just to YOU across a pleasant small restaurant table. Tyson is talking to a small group of amateur science enthusiasts. The difference is real, but maybe not very important.
I have watched the first 2 episodes of the new 'Cosmos". I gave been re-watching the original on other evenings. I can't wait for the series to be completed so that I can add the DVDs to my library.
Somewhere along the years, Hollywood realized that a good book (or even comic book) could make a good movie "as is". Even the slight changes in the movies were well done.
So I've come to expect decent adaptations from Hollywood. But I was still worried when I read that someone was remaking 'Cosmos', the outstanding "Life, The Universe, and Everything" of my younger years. I was relieved to read that Niel DeGrasse Tyson would be the host. A decade ago, I thought that he could do that, but doubted it would ever be done.
Some themes can be redone wonderfully. "West Side Story' was a wonderful adaptation of 'Romeo and Juliet'. "The Wiz' was a great redo of The Wizard of Oz'. And I'm sure Movie majors in college would name many "redos" of Shakespeare. But good "redos" were few and far between.
'Cosmos" appears to be a great "redo", and Mr. Tyson after the first 2 episodes. Tyson has the best relaxed and yet enthusiastic approach to science since Sagan, he doesn't drown you in professional terminology, and he just makes things sound exciting.
No "redo" would be good if the "redo" was just a copycat of the original. There are differences between Sagan and Tyson. Sagan came across as someone talking just to YOU across a pleasant small restaurant table. Tyson is talking to a small group of amateur science enthusiasts. The difference is real, but maybe not very important.
I have watched the first 2 episodes of the new 'Cosmos". I gave been re-watching the original on other evenings. I can't wait for the series to be completed so that I can add the DVDs to my library.
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