Monday, April 14, 2014
Trailer!
Pictures, as promised...
Like in any project, I could do it a bit better a second time, but, "twill serve, twill serve".
Saturday, April 12, 2014
Trailer Completus
FINALLY!
Sometimes things that seem so simple are surprisingly complicated. I sure learned (re-learned?) that this past 2 weeks.
It seemed simple. Put plywood sides on a metal framed hauling trailer. Put tops on the exposed plywood top edges. Big deal. Um, not quite.
Yuo remember the Six Million Doolar Man where "they" could make him betteer faster and all that? Right... It doesn't go that easy even with simpler things. All I wanted to do was put sides on the trailer and top the plywood edges on the top so they wouldn't rot so quickly. And the idea is to make the trailer so that sand won't fall out as I drive home from the landscape supply place. Not that I buy a lot of sand, but if sand won't fall out, mulch won't and I do buy a lot of mulch.
The sides were easy. Sort of. I bought two 4'x8' panels of T1-11 exterior plywood siding. The stuff is great. Stable, solid, straight. I had the lumber store cut the sheets in 20" lengths (there are more details but I won't bore you with those). And I bought 2"x'4"x8' boards. Home I went...
The first problem I re-discovered (I probably learned this when I originally did the sides 20 years ago, but forgot) was that the metal frame around the trailer was NOT square in ANY direction. That means I had to craft the pieces into place. I made a few errors. I corrected the errors "pretty" well by hand sawing some cuts to the sides to accommodate the metal welding bumps, but I did a couple of sawings that I shouldn't have done. At least they were small errors.
After I got the sides to fit, I got at the 2x4 tops. That was trickier than I thought. I knew I could cut dadoes (stacked saw blades that make a thick cut -5/8" [20/32"] in this case) on my table saw to fit the 19/32" plywood. It would have worked great except that the plywood was a bit curvy along the entire length. Not much to see by eye, but the dado cuts sure could tell.
It took two more days to get the dado cuts to fit over the plywood edge tops. And THEN I had to adjust all the lengths to fit exactly. Did I mention I wanted all the corners to join with miter cuts?
And the back panel has to be removable. There are 2 rectangular welded shapes that are supposed to pit a 2x4 set into them. They don't, of course. The inside edges are curved. So I had to shape 2x4 pieces to fit inside lossely enough to go in and out easily but also fit tightly enough to remove easily.
That took an hour. And then I had to attach those pieces to the back sheet squarely enough so they both matched the rectangle metal fittings AND were firmly attached to the back. That was easy enough except I had to go back into the basement several times for more tools.
If I did this more often than every 20 years, it would be a lot easier. I almost wish a neighbor would come over now and ask me if I had any experience at doing this. I sure do now!
Tomorrow, pictures!
Sometimes things that seem so simple are surprisingly complicated. I sure learned (re-learned?) that this past 2 weeks.
It seemed simple. Put plywood sides on a metal framed hauling trailer. Put tops on the exposed plywood top edges. Big deal. Um, not quite.
Yuo remember the Six Million Doolar Man where "they" could make him betteer faster and all that? Right... It doesn't go that easy even with simpler things. All I wanted to do was put sides on the trailer and top the plywood edges on the top so they wouldn't rot so quickly. And the idea is to make the trailer so that sand won't fall out as I drive home from the landscape supply place. Not that I buy a lot of sand, but if sand won't fall out, mulch won't and I do buy a lot of mulch.
The sides were easy. Sort of. I bought two 4'x8' panels of T1-11 exterior plywood siding. The stuff is great. Stable, solid, straight. I had the lumber store cut the sheets in 20" lengths (there are more details but I won't bore you with those). And I bought 2"x'4"x8' boards. Home I went...
The first problem I re-discovered (I probably learned this when I originally did the sides 20 years ago, but forgot) was that the metal frame around the trailer was NOT square in ANY direction. That means I had to craft the pieces into place. I made a few errors. I corrected the errors "pretty" well by hand sawing some cuts to the sides to accommodate the metal welding bumps, but I did a couple of sawings that I shouldn't have done. At least they were small errors.
After I got the sides to fit, I got at the 2x4 tops. That was trickier than I thought. I knew I could cut dadoes (stacked saw blades that make a thick cut -5/8" [20/32"] in this case) on my table saw to fit the 19/32" plywood. It would have worked great except that the plywood was a bit curvy along the entire length. Not much to see by eye, but the dado cuts sure could tell.
It took two more days to get the dado cuts to fit over the plywood edge tops. And THEN I had to adjust all the lengths to fit exactly. Did I mention I wanted all the corners to join with miter cuts?
And the back panel has to be removable. There are 2 rectangular welded shapes that are supposed to pit a 2x4 set into them. They don't, of course. The inside edges are curved. So I had to shape 2x4 pieces to fit inside lossely enough to go in and out easily but also fit tightly enough to remove easily.
That took an hour. And then I had to attach those pieces to the back sheet squarely enough so they both matched the rectangle metal fittings AND were firmly attached to the back. That was easy enough except I had to go back into the basement several times for more tools.
If I did this more often than every 20 years, it would be a lot easier. I almost wish a neighbor would come over now and ask me if I had any experience at doing this. I sure do now!
Tomorrow, pictures!
Saturday, April 5, 2014
Ah First Things First...
Well, to get the supplies I need for the enclosed garden, I need the hauling trailer renovated. The old 20 yer-old wood sides rotted out. I got new T1-11 sides cut to height and length.
I worked on the front and back yesterday. The sides of the trailer aren't exactly square, so I measured the top and bottom of the front side and put a square against the sides to estimate the unsquareness. Then realized it doesn't matter because there is an inch of metal frame in each corner.
Still, I want to make good joints for personal reasons, and I did. Even with slight angles, no edge came out more than 1/16' of matching the corners. So they matched that tolerance. The back hs a strange brace that matched a 2"x4" board IF you sand it down at the corners, and I have the pieces cut to length for that but not yet crafted carefully to size.
But it DOES mean that the trailer will be ready to haul 23 10' pipes in a couple days and 12 rolls of chicken wire shortly after that.
I looked at rental equipment for making the holes the upright pipes will sit in. An auger costs $100 for 4 hours; a trencher something like $281 for 4 hours. Looks like crowbar and post-hole-digging work for my. Well, I only need 9 holes! I can manage that. It would take that long just to drive to the store, rent the machine, drive back, unload it, set it up, use it, etc, and do the reverse.
I'll still hate pounding through rocky gravel...
I worked on the front and back yesterday. The sides of the trailer aren't exactly square, so I measured the top and bottom of the front side and put a square against the sides to estimate the unsquareness. Then realized it doesn't matter because there is an inch of metal frame in each corner.
Still, I want to make good joints for personal reasons, and I did. Even with slight angles, no edge came out more than 1/16' of matching the corners. So they matched that tolerance. The back hs a strange brace that matched a 2"x4" board IF you sand it down at the corners, and I have the pieces cut to length for that but not yet crafted carefully to size.
But it DOES mean that the trailer will be ready to haul 23 10' pipes in a couple days and 12 rolls of chicken wire shortly after that.
I looked at rental equipment for making the holes the upright pipes will sit in. An auger costs $100 for 4 hours; a trencher something like $281 for 4 hours. Looks like crowbar and post-hole-digging work for my. Well, I only need 9 holes! I can manage that. It would take that long just to drive to the store, rent the machine, drive back, unload it, set it up, use it, etc, and do the reverse.
I'll still hate pounding through rocky gravel...
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Garden Layout
Megan asked why the garden beds "should be true square feet". A good question.
There is a home gardening system by Mel Bartholomew based on planting home crops by square feet. Generally, I have used it. It works by rotating crops through square feet, never letting any space be unused. It works, but you have to keep at it. A square foot of radishes, a square foot of carrots, etc. You learn the best spacing for crops. 16 radishes per square foot, 9 carrots, etc. It does make easy planting. As I understand it, it is an adaptation of French Intensive Row Planting.
I try to keep at it, but it takes planning. Still, I want my framed beds to be in true square feet of interior size. The interior size is the problem. The boards you use to make the framed bed take up some space. So you have to use boards that are longer by their thickness.
It isn't TOO complicated. To make a 4'x4' soil framed bed, you need boards that are 4' 1.5 inches on all sides because the boards are 1.5" thick. If you just use exactly 4' boards, some of the last squares are 12"'x9" (12" -[1.5"x2]).
So in my framed bed plans, I have to make the the framed boards a few inches larger than the square feet. An 8'x4' bed actually has to have boards 8' 3" and 4' 3". It makes the details a bit insane!
Fortunately, there are some shortcuts. If there are 4 beds (8 boards total), then that takes 12" of space (8*1.5"). If I didn't take that in to account, then the paths between the beds would be too small for my 24" wide wheelbarrow,
Properly arranged, my beds allow my wheelbarrow. An inch wrong, it doesn't. So, my constructed beds must have outside dimensions larger than the true square feet inside but allow the wheelbarrow just barely.
I hope that all makes sense.
And Megan, you sent me your email once but I lost it, Would you send it again? cavebear2118 AT verizon DOT net...
There is a home gardening system by Mel Bartholomew based on planting home crops by square feet. Generally, I have used it. It works by rotating crops through square feet, never letting any space be unused. It works, but you have to keep at it. A square foot of radishes, a square foot of carrots, etc. You learn the best spacing for crops. 16 radishes per square foot, 9 carrots, etc. It does make easy planting. As I understand it, it is an adaptation of French Intensive Row Planting.
I try to keep at it, but it takes planning. Still, I want my framed beds to be in true square feet of interior size. The interior size is the problem. The boards you use to make the framed bed take up some space. So you have to use boards that are longer by their thickness.
It isn't TOO complicated. To make a 4'x4' soil framed bed, you need boards that are 4' 1.5 inches on all sides because the boards are 1.5" thick. If you just use exactly 4' boards, some of the last squares are 12"'x9" (12" -[1.5"x2]).
So in my framed bed plans, I have to make the the framed boards a few inches larger than the square feet. An 8'x4' bed actually has to have boards 8' 3" and 4' 3". It makes the details a bit insane!
Fortunately, there are some shortcuts. If there are 4 beds (8 boards total), then that takes 12" of space (8*1.5"). If I didn't take that in to account, then the paths between the beds would be too small for my 24" wide wheelbarrow,
Properly arranged, my beds allow my wheelbarrow. An inch wrong, it doesn't. So, my constructed beds must have outside dimensions larger than the true square feet inside but allow the wheelbarrow just barely.
I hope that all makes sense.
And Megan, you sent me your email once but I lost it, Would you send it again? cavebear2118 AT verizon DOT net...
Trailer Re-Siding
Before I can get the pipes, bulk chicken wire, and then additional compost/soil for the garden enclosure, I have to have the trailer renovated. I started on that back in last Summer with pressure-treated plywood to cover the sides and base, but the plywood layers separated and warped on the sides, was too high, and too thin for good stability. All around, a seemingly good choice of material that didn't work.
Well, "almost" didn't work. It did fine screwed down onto the boards that make up the bottom of the trailer. I covered those with plywood because the original individual boards have gaps between them that let sand/dirt/compost fall through unless I covered them with a plastic tarp. And when you shovel the contents out, you tear up the tarp. At $10 per tarp, I got tired of that fast (and repairing tears with duct tape isn't free either).
So last week, I decided to go back to what DID work; T1-11 Exterior Plywood Siding. The previous sides lasted 15 years before starting to rot, and the stuff is very stable and strong. I should have just stayed with that last Summer. I guess I figured pressure treated plywood would last even longer.
So last week, I started planning for T1-11 plywood. I went to Home Depot and they didn't have any of the T1-11 in the thickness I wanted (it comes in basically 3/8" and 5/8" thick) and I wanted the thicker for strength. Three days later, they also did not have it. Today I went and I was annoyed enough to find a helpful employee to ask. He said, that if the plywood wasn't on the shelves, they probably didn't have it in stock.
I suggested that maybe there was some "in the back" or newly delivered. But as I said that, I looked WAY UP at the top of the stacks, a good 20 feet up an saw a carboard-covered box that suggested it was the stuff I wanted. 19/32nds thick (seriously, who would make anything 19/32nds? It must actually be metric). Then a look from the side showed the other dimensions I wanted.
I won't say the senior lumber guy wasn't exactly upset to have to get that stuff down from the top, but he didn't thank me for the opportunity either. Well, he got to use a BIG DAMN FORKLIFT and most guys would enjoy that. Other employees gathered around to watch (they don't get to use that cool stuff). I don't want to spoil any "guyness" here, but I'm not impressed. He had only 3 controls: A steering wheel, the fork up and down, and a slight forward adjustment to the fork. My mouse is that complicated. And he screwed it up the first 2 tries! And he was the senior person...
OK, eventually, he got the pallet of the plywood I wanted down to the sales-level bin. I told him I wanted 2 sheets and I wanted them cut. I should explain the cutting.
I wanted the sides of the trailer 18" high. But that's tricky with T1-11 because it has a tongue and groove edges (like half-laps depending on your familiarity with terms).
I had the lumber guy use the coolest saw I ever saw... Its a circular saw on a pipe grid that works both vertically AND horizontally, with rollers at the bottom so the large plywood panels slide smoothly.
I ended up with four 8'x18" pieces and 2 scraps I will find a use for later. I was initially worried about securing the pieces on the trailer, but then I realized the could fit corner to opposite corner.
Back home, I set the 2 long sides of the 8' plywood strips along the 8" side of the metal frame and drilled holes through the wood to attach them with 1/4" bolt and fender washers on the inside, and lock washers and wing nuts (for easy re-tightening) on the outside. That took care of the sides.
The front and removable back will take some more exact cuts. It will be important that the front and back make good contact with the sides so I can't lose material at the corners. Fotunately, when I put the old back in place, it fit perfectly, so I know what size to cut the new T1-11. The front part will require so detailed fitting. Well, the last part always needs details work.
And the forecast is for 2 days of heavy rain, so I brought all the side pieces into the garage. I'm guessing Tuesday is when I can bring the pieces out to the trailer for correct fitting.
Then I can use the trailer to get the pipes and chicken wire for the enclosed garden. I always say
something else has to be done first" on any project, and this is proof. LOL!
Well, "almost" didn't work. It did fine screwed down onto the boards that make up the bottom of the trailer. I covered those with plywood because the original individual boards have gaps between them that let sand/dirt/compost fall through unless I covered them with a plastic tarp. And when you shovel the contents out, you tear up the tarp. At $10 per tarp, I got tired of that fast (and repairing tears with duct tape isn't free either).
So last week, I decided to go back to what DID work; T1-11 Exterior Plywood Siding. The previous sides lasted 15 years before starting to rot, and the stuff is very stable and strong. I should have just stayed with that last Summer. I guess I figured pressure treated plywood would last even longer.
So last week, I started planning for T1-11 plywood. I went to Home Depot and they didn't have any of the T1-11 in the thickness I wanted (it comes in basically 3/8" and 5/8" thick) and I wanted the thicker for strength. Three days later, they also did not have it. Today I went and I was annoyed enough to find a helpful employee to ask. He said, that if the plywood wasn't on the shelves, they probably didn't have it in stock.
I suggested that maybe there was some "in the back" or newly delivered. But as I said that, I looked WAY UP at the top of the stacks, a good 20 feet up an saw a carboard-covered box that suggested it was the stuff I wanted. 19/32nds thick (seriously, who would make anything 19/32nds? It must actually be metric). Then a look from the side showed the other dimensions I wanted.
I won't say the senior lumber guy wasn't exactly upset to have to get that stuff down from the top, but he didn't thank me for the opportunity either. Well, he got to use a BIG DAMN FORKLIFT and most guys would enjoy that. Other employees gathered around to watch (they don't get to use that cool stuff). I don't want to spoil any "guyness" here, but I'm not impressed. He had only 3 controls: A steering wheel, the fork up and down, and a slight forward adjustment to the fork. My mouse is that complicated. And he screwed it up the first 2 tries! And he was the senior person...
OK, eventually, he got the pallet of the plywood I wanted down to the sales-level bin. I told him I wanted 2 sheets and I wanted them cut. I should explain the cutting.
I wanted the sides of the trailer 18" high. But that's tricky with T1-11 because it has a tongue and groove edges (like half-laps depending on your familiarity with terms).
I had the lumber guy use the coolest saw I ever saw... Its a circular saw on a pipe grid that works both vertically AND horizontally, with rollers at the bottom so the large plywood panels slide smoothly.
I ended up with four 8'x18" pieces and 2 scraps I will find a use for later. I was initially worried about securing the pieces on the trailer, but then I realized the could fit corner to opposite corner.
Back home, I set the 2 long sides of the 8' plywood strips along the 8" side of the metal frame and drilled holes through the wood to attach them with 1/4" bolt and fender washers on the inside, and lock washers and wing nuts (for easy re-tightening) on the outside. That took care of the sides.
The front and removable back will take some more exact cuts. It will be important that the front and back make good contact with the sides so I can't lose material at the corners. Fotunately, when I put the old back in place, it fit perfectly, so I know what size to cut the new T1-11. The front part will require so detailed fitting. Well, the last part always needs details work.
And the forecast is for 2 days of heavy rain, so I brought all the side pieces into the garage. I'm guessing Tuesday is when I can bring the pieces out to the trailer for correct fitting.
Then I can use the trailer to get the pipes and chicken wire for the enclosed garden. I always say
something else has to be done first" on any project, and this is proof. LOL!
Tuesday, March 25, 2014
Garden Enclosure 2
I love gardening. I love geometry. The two intersect when laying out framed beds in restricted space. Having decided that a 20'x20' enclosed space ought to be a reasonable size to built, I have been sketching out various sizes and arrangements of framed beds to but in that area.
The results have been both maddening and enjoyable. Maddening because there are possibly endless arrangements, and enjoyable because I love the challenge. In the process, I have developed some rules:
Primary Considerations:
1. 20'x20' total enclosed size
2. Paths between beds cannot be narrower than 2' (wheelbarrow access)
3. No part of a bed can be more than 2' from an edge (for easy digging and reaching access)
A. That means no bed can be wider than 4'
B. A 4' bed needs a path on both sides
4. Maximize growing square footage
5. Minimize pathway square footage
6. There has to be a support pole dead center in the 20'x20' enclosure and it can't be in a path (the 10' pipes need a center support)
7. Growing area in beds must be true square feet*
Secondary Considerations:
1. I won't walk on the framed bed soil, so beds must allow easy movement among them (no labyrinthine paths)
2. Boards cost money, so the fewer needed, the better.
3. Beds against the enclosure chicken wire allow some access to varmints
Observations:
1. Material costs count only once. Square feet of growing area is forever.
* Meaning the inside dimensions of the beds are whole feet, not the outside dimensions. That threw me for days when I calculated the square feet of the beds and the square feet of the paths and it wouldn't add up to 400 square feet (20'x20'). Boards have thickness, and it adds up! Nominal 2" boards are actually 1.5" thick, so 8 boards across 4 beds takes exactly 1 foot off the available space!
Anyone who wants to suggest some layouts is more than welcome to send some. My email address is right under the header.
The results have been both maddening and enjoyable. Maddening because there are possibly endless arrangements, and enjoyable because I love the challenge. In the process, I have developed some rules:
Primary Considerations:
1. 20'x20' total enclosed size
2. Paths between beds cannot be narrower than 2' (wheelbarrow access)
3. No part of a bed can be more than 2' from an edge (for easy digging and reaching access)
A. That means no bed can be wider than 4'
B. A 4' bed needs a path on both sides
4. Maximize growing square footage
5. Minimize pathway square footage
6. There has to be a support pole dead center in the 20'x20' enclosure and it can't be in a path (the 10' pipes need a center support)
7. Growing area in beds must be true square feet*
Secondary Considerations:
1. I won't walk on the framed bed soil, so beds must allow easy movement among them (no labyrinthine paths)
2. Boards cost money, so the fewer needed, the better.
3. Beds against the enclosure chicken wire allow some access to varmints
Observations:
1. Material costs count only once. Square feet of growing area is forever.
* Meaning the inside dimensions of the beds are whole feet, not the outside dimensions. That threw me for days when I calculated the square feet of the beds and the square feet of the paths and it wouldn't add up to 400 square feet (20'x20'). Boards have thickness, and it adds up! Nominal 2" boards are actually 1.5" thick, so 8 boards across 4 beds takes exactly 1 foot off the available space!
Anyone who wants to suggest some layouts is more than welcome to send some. My email address is right under the header.
Saturday, March 22, 2014
Enclosed Garden
After several years of increased varmint invasion, I have decided decided to take the bull by the horns (or more properly the squirrel by the tail) and exclude the little beastards entirely. I'm going to totally enclose my garden in 1" chicken wire.
My original (and technically "current") garden has a 32'x2' framed trellis, plus four 8'x3' beds and two 4'x4' beds. But over the years tree shading and invasive vine growth has reduced that to 12 feet of trellis, two 8x3s and two 4x4s. And they are over 20 years old, so the wood frames are rotting badly. With the need to rebuild the beds anyway, the varmint problems invited a serious solution.
First, let me assure you that I realize home gardening does not save money on food. It is a hobby (of great personal satisfaction) and no hobby saves money. Hobbyist fishermen don't get fish cheaper than can be gotten at the grocery stores, and the same is true for hunting. So if my plan seems to cost more money than its worth, don't be surprised.
Second, last year the squirrels (and possibly a groundhog and a rabbit or two) ate or pulled up almost all of my seedlings early and ate most of my ripening tomatoes and melons later. That was the last straw; I could either give up of double-down. I'm doubling down!
I started looking for structure ideas last Fall and found one site where a person had constructed an enclosed structure about 8'x10' using EMT pipes (thin metal pipe used to hold electrical wire underground) and chicken wire suspended over picture frame wire. I sketched out a few designs on that idea and realized it needed to be stronger for the 20'x20' size I wanted.
One thing I discovered was that PVC pipe fitting fit over EMT pipe quite tightly. So I figured out the kinds of connections I needed to build a 20'x20' grid of 1"x10' EMT pipes. There aren't metal connectors in complicated shapes like there are for PVC pipes, so that was great.
I ordered the PVC connections last week and they arrived a few days ago. But I wasn't committed to the structure until I started to take apart the existing framed beds. I started on that today. My 2'x32' trellis bed had 6" concrete remesh wire as the vertical support. That's the heavy wire grid they put into concrete driveways for strength. I use it for super-strong tomato cages and trellis material.
The act of commitment was to cut the trellis remesh wire off the posts supporting it. I have a tool called a "Sawz-All" that is basically an electric kitchen knife on steroids. It can cut wood or metal.
I unrolled 125' of heavy-duty extension cord out to the garden, plugged in the Sawzall and started cutting the concrete remesh from the trellis posts. It went easier than I thought. But there is ALWAYS some suprise to any part of a project. Well, the first half of the remesh grid came off fine and I propped it against the fence (it will be used later).
The second half was not so easy. Years of evil vines (some 3/4" thick) had the wire remesh locked down. It took a good 30 minutes to cut the vines loose. No matter how many I cut there were more from unexpected directions, so it took multiple tries to get it all loose. I finally got that half propped against the fence, but there is probably another hour of pruning to get all those interwoven vines cut out of the remesh.
So part is done. A small part. But a start is good and I have to continue now or there won't be any trellis to grow cucumbers, pole beans, etc on this year. The first part of destruction requires the remainder.
The next step is to pull up all the scrap carpet I've used to suppress weeds in the paths between the framed beds. I already know that there are many weeds growing through it, so pulling it up won't be easy. Then I have to take apart the framed beds themselves. That old lumber is all trash, but it will leave the good garden soil without support.
With Spring coming late, I don't have as much time as I expected to have to complete this project. Of course! Any normal year, I could have started this project in early March. THIS YEAR, we have more snow forecast for Wdnesday!
Basically, I have to set nine 10' EMT pipes in the ground 2' deep in a 3x3 grid and then connect them all at the top. I can dig individual holes but my test dig in the rocky clay soil was not promising to be easy. I could rent a power auger to drill holes. Or I can rent a power trencher to make a trench along the entire outside of the structure and then backfill the soil around the EMT pipes.
I may go with the trencher because I have some other uses for one. There are tree roots coming from neighbors' trees and I need to get them out because they are are making the ground unlevel and the new framed beds need to be on flat soil. But maybe I can cut them with an ax and pry them out with a steel bar easier. I'll have to give the latter a try first.
The last part of the project is to use the interior structure space as efficiently as possible. I have done some sketches and realized that my original layout of framed beds was very inefficient. Well, that didn't matter when I had the whole backyard. Now it matters. The most efficient 20'x20' section of the existing beds had 126 square feet of garden. The best 20'x20' section I have layed out so far has 224 sq ft with 2' wide paths.
A new post when I do more...
I'll be taking lots of pictures as I go on this. I can tell from doing internet searches that a lot of people want to do this but don't know how and will find my project. I don't have anything to show yet, but should soon.
My original (and technically "current") garden has a 32'x2' framed trellis, plus four 8'x3' beds and two 4'x4' beds. But over the years tree shading and invasive vine growth has reduced that to 12 feet of trellis, two 8x3s and two 4x4s. And they are over 20 years old, so the wood frames are rotting badly. With the need to rebuild the beds anyway, the varmint problems invited a serious solution.
First, let me assure you that I realize home gardening does not save money on food. It is a hobby (of great personal satisfaction) and no hobby saves money. Hobbyist fishermen don't get fish cheaper than can be gotten at the grocery stores, and the same is true for hunting. So if my plan seems to cost more money than its worth, don't be surprised.
Second, last year the squirrels (and possibly a groundhog and a rabbit or two) ate or pulled up almost all of my seedlings early and ate most of my ripening tomatoes and melons later. That was the last straw; I could either give up of double-down. I'm doubling down!
I started looking for structure ideas last Fall and found one site where a person had constructed an enclosed structure about 8'x10' using EMT pipes (thin metal pipe used to hold electrical wire underground) and chicken wire suspended over picture frame wire. I sketched out a few designs on that idea and realized it needed to be stronger for the 20'x20' size I wanted.
One thing I discovered was that PVC pipe fitting fit over EMT pipe quite tightly. So I figured out the kinds of connections I needed to build a 20'x20' grid of 1"x10' EMT pipes. There aren't metal connectors in complicated shapes like there are for PVC pipes, so that was great.
I ordered the PVC connections last week and they arrived a few days ago. But I wasn't committed to the structure until I started to take apart the existing framed beds. I started on that today. My 2'x32' trellis bed had 6" concrete remesh wire as the vertical support. That's the heavy wire grid they put into concrete driveways for strength. I use it for super-strong tomato cages and trellis material.
The act of commitment was to cut the trellis remesh wire off the posts supporting it. I have a tool called a "Sawz-All" that is basically an electric kitchen knife on steroids. It can cut wood or metal.
The second half was not so easy. Years of evil vines (some 3/4" thick) had the wire remesh locked down. It took a good 30 minutes to cut the vines loose. No matter how many I cut there were more from unexpected directions, so it took multiple tries to get it all loose. I finally got that half propped against the fence, but there is probably another hour of pruning to get all those interwoven vines cut out of the remesh.
So part is done. A small part. But a start is good and I have to continue now or there won't be any trellis to grow cucumbers, pole beans, etc on this year. The first part of destruction requires the remainder.
The next step is to pull up all the scrap carpet I've used to suppress weeds in the paths between the framed beds. I already know that there are many weeds growing through it, so pulling it up won't be easy. Then I have to take apart the framed beds themselves. That old lumber is all trash, but it will leave the good garden soil without support.
With Spring coming late, I don't have as much time as I expected to have to complete this project. Of course! Any normal year, I could have started this project in early March. THIS YEAR, we have more snow forecast for Wdnesday!
Basically, I have to set nine 10' EMT pipes in the ground 2' deep in a 3x3 grid and then connect them all at the top. I can dig individual holes but my test dig in the rocky clay soil was not promising to be easy. I could rent a power auger to drill holes. Or I can rent a power trencher to make a trench along the entire outside of the structure and then backfill the soil around the EMT pipes.
I may go with the trencher because I have some other uses for one. There are tree roots coming from neighbors' trees and I need to get them out because they are are making the ground unlevel and the new framed beds need to be on flat soil. But maybe I can cut them with an ax and pry them out with a steel bar easier. I'll have to give the latter a try first.
The last part of the project is to use the interior structure space as efficiently as possible. I have done some sketches and realized that my original layout of framed beds was very inefficient. Well, that didn't matter when I had the whole backyard. Now it matters. The most efficient 20'x20' section of the existing beds had 126 square feet of garden. The best 20'x20' section I have layed out so far has 224 sq ft with 2' wide paths.
A new post when I do more...
I'll be taking lots of pictures as I go on this. I can tell from doing internet searches that a lot of people want to do this but don't know how and will find my project. I don't have anything to show yet, but should soon.
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
New Cosmos TV Show
If you are like me, you worry when you read that some Hollywood type is going to make a movie of your favorite book, or old comic mag, or a remake of an older favorite movie. I went through the 60s to 80s with bad results from Hollywood. The first Dune movie was horrid, and I still have horrible thoughts about 'Howard The Duck'. When the first Marvel Comics movies were announced, I prepared to cringe. But they came off well, as did The Lord Of The Ring and I sure never expected they could do THAT right.
Somewhere along the years, Hollywood realized that a good book (or even comic book) could make a good movie "as is". Even the slight changes in the movies were well done.
So I've come to expect decent adaptations from Hollywood. But I was still worried when I read that someone was remaking 'Cosmos', the outstanding "Life, The Universe, and Everything" of my younger years. I was relieved to read that Niel DeGrasse Tyson would be the host. A decade ago, I thought that he could do that, but doubted it would ever be done.
Some themes can be redone wonderfully. "West Side Story' was a wonderful adaptation of 'Romeo and Juliet'. "The Wiz' was a great redo of The Wizard of Oz'. And I'm sure Movie majors in college would name many "redos" of Shakespeare. But good "redos" were few and far between.
'Cosmos" appears to be a great "redo", and Mr. Tyson after the first 2 episodes. Tyson has the best relaxed and yet enthusiastic approach to science since Sagan, he doesn't drown you in professional terminology, and he just makes things sound exciting.
No "redo" would be good if the "redo" was just a copycat of the original. There are differences between Sagan and Tyson. Sagan came across as someone talking just to YOU across a pleasant small restaurant table. Tyson is talking to a small group of amateur science enthusiasts. The difference is real, but maybe not very important.
I have watched the first 2 episodes of the new 'Cosmos". I gave been re-watching the original on other evenings. I can't wait for the series to be completed so that I can add the DVDs to my library.
Somewhere along the years, Hollywood realized that a good book (or even comic book) could make a good movie "as is". Even the slight changes in the movies were well done.
So I've come to expect decent adaptations from Hollywood. But I was still worried when I read that someone was remaking 'Cosmos', the outstanding "Life, The Universe, and Everything" of my younger years. I was relieved to read that Niel DeGrasse Tyson would be the host. A decade ago, I thought that he could do that, but doubted it would ever be done.
Some themes can be redone wonderfully. "West Side Story' was a wonderful adaptation of 'Romeo and Juliet'. "The Wiz' was a great redo of The Wizard of Oz'. And I'm sure Movie majors in college would name many "redos" of Shakespeare. But good "redos" were few and far between.
'Cosmos" appears to be a great "redo", and Mr. Tyson after the first 2 episodes. Tyson has the best relaxed and yet enthusiastic approach to science since Sagan, he doesn't drown you in professional terminology, and he just makes things sound exciting.
No "redo" would be good if the "redo" was just a copycat of the original. There are differences between Sagan and Tyson. Sagan came across as someone talking just to YOU across a pleasant small restaurant table. Tyson is talking to a small group of amateur science enthusiasts. The difference is real, but maybe not very important.
I have watched the first 2 episodes of the new 'Cosmos". I gave been re-watching the original on other evenings. I can't wait for the series to be completed so that I can add the DVDs to my library.
Monday, March 17, 2014
Dad Update
I've been asked how my Dad is doing. He is not real happy, but there isn't much I can do about it. He lost the ability to take care of himself about 2 years ago when he turned 90. Some of you may remember that I had to fly down from MD to FL to retrieve him from a rehab hospital where he had been held for a month due to doctor-judged incapacity.
I and my brother got him up to my house where I took care of him for a year as he gradually became less able to manage daily affairs even with my help. Last April, my sister found a good assisted-living facility near her where she and my brother and assorted nieces could visit him regularly.
We got him to sell the FL house Fall of 2012 and 2 condo investments he had in NH this past January. They were decent investments, but he kept saying he should move to one of them, so we had to get them out of his thoughts. He doesn't recall either of those places anymore, so that is something less for him to worry about.
Dad gets regular visits from local family. I hate to drive, so I mostly write letters every few weeks telling him things I am doing. He likes to read about "accomplishments", as he was a very dedicated D-I-Y type himself (more than I will ever be).
I get the impression that he his generally happy except after family visits. I know that sounds a bit of a contradiction from above, but it's timing. Left alone, he is generally OK, mostly complaining he doesn't get to watch all the Fox News political talk and Golf he wants. Well, that's because there are more ladies there and they like to watch Soaps and Shopping Channel shows and they outnumber him.
We tried a TV in his room, but he can't manage the channels and mostly forgot it was even there. So he sits quietly and watches whatever is on. There are scheduled activities, but Dad was always bored by arts and crafts and socializing, so he retreats to his room.
I feel sad about it all. He wishes his body would just give up and stop. He's in better physical health than mental health. Physically, he could live to a 100. He can sometimes express a fear that he will start living physically without any self-awareness. I understand that. He can't do anything about it (personal decision). By which I mean that *I* hope I can just crawl out on the deck some cold Winter's night and end it all when I think the time has come for ME. But he doesnt think that way.
He isn't religious in the organized sense, but he does have a residual idea that deliberately ending his own life is somehow "wrong". I don't agree, but I have been very careful not to say anything about that. I don't want to influence him in any way. He is confused enough about his life as it is. I am not wise enough to give him advice about his last years, and he wouldn't pay any attention to my advice if I gave it to him (I'm just a "child" after all, so what could *I* know).
So I write letters to him that I suspect are barely read and little understood. I avoid anything complex and (back to the top) about DIY things he might still understand in general and that might give him the reminder that I am DOING THINGS, hoping he likes that.
*sigh*
I and my brother got him up to my house where I took care of him for a year as he gradually became less able to manage daily affairs even with my help. Last April, my sister found a good assisted-living facility near her where she and my brother and assorted nieces could visit him regularly.
We got him to sell the FL house Fall of 2012 and 2 condo investments he had in NH this past January. They were decent investments, but he kept saying he should move to one of them, so we had to get them out of his thoughts. He doesn't recall either of those places anymore, so that is something less for him to worry about.
Dad gets regular visits from local family. I hate to drive, so I mostly write letters every few weeks telling him things I am doing. He likes to read about "accomplishments", as he was a very dedicated D-I-Y type himself (more than I will ever be).
I get the impression that he his generally happy except after family visits. I know that sounds a bit of a contradiction from above, but it's timing. Left alone, he is generally OK, mostly complaining he doesn't get to watch all the Fox News political talk and Golf he wants. Well, that's because there are more ladies there and they like to watch Soaps and Shopping Channel shows and they outnumber him.
We tried a TV in his room, but he can't manage the channels and mostly forgot it was even there. So he sits quietly and watches whatever is on. There are scheduled activities, but Dad was always bored by arts and crafts and socializing, so he retreats to his room.
I feel sad about it all. He wishes his body would just give up and stop. He's in better physical health than mental health. Physically, he could live to a 100. He can sometimes express a fear that he will start living physically without any self-awareness. I understand that. He can't do anything about it (personal decision). By which I mean that *I* hope I can just crawl out on the deck some cold Winter's night and end it all when I think the time has come for ME. But he doesnt think that way.
He isn't religious in the organized sense, but he does have a residual idea that deliberately ending his own life is somehow "wrong". I don't agree, but I have been very careful not to say anything about that. I don't want to influence him in any way. He is confused enough about his life as it is. I am not wise enough to give him advice about his last years, and he wouldn't pay any attention to my advice if I gave it to him (I'm just a "child" after all, so what could *I* know).
So I write letters to him that I suspect are barely read and little understood. I avoid anything complex and (back to the top) about DIY things he might still understand in general and that might give him the reminder that I am DOING THINGS, hoping he likes that.
*sigh*
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Deer Ate A Shrub
Well, OK, that's not all that uncommon. But it has been for me.
The very first landscaping I did when I moved in here 27 years ago (new house so no initial landscaping) was plant a few shrubs on the east side of the house. It was a Korean Dogwood tree with 2 Euonymus shrubs, several Nandina (false bamboo) plants, and some spreading evergreen.
Well, nothing bothered the shrubs in all that time. Until last week! But as I walked around that side of the yard (a least-visited side), "something" just looked odd. It took a few minutes, but I realized all the bottom halves of the Euonymus shrubs looked "wrong". It hit me suddenly that all the leaves on the bottom half of the 8' high Euonymus shrubs were GONE!
Well, sometimes it takes a few minutes for the brain to "see" the difference between what it is looking at and what the memory says was there before. So many possibilities came to mind. Insect damage? Not in Winter. Fungal disease? Ditto about Winter. Natural leaf fall? No, it's an evergreen.
DEER!
When I moved into to this newly-built neighborhood, there were deer around. There was a swamp across the street and deer love wetland edges. I almost got trampled by 2 panicked deer while I was mowing the lawn my first Fall. I used to see deerprints in the lawn at first. That all stopped after a few years as the street filled with new houses.
Last year, I had some hostas eaten for the first time in 15 years. This Winter, shrubs for the very first time.
And they even left me a "gift"...
THEY'RE BAAAACCCKK...
The very first landscaping I did when I moved in here 27 years ago (new house so no initial landscaping) was plant a few shrubs on the east side of the house. It was a Korean Dogwood tree with 2 Euonymus shrubs, several Nandina (false bamboo) plants, and some spreading evergreen.
Well, nothing bothered the shrubs in all that time. Until last week! But as I walked around that side of the yard (a least-visited side), "something" just looked odd. It took a few minutes, but I realized all the bottom halves of the Euonymus shrubs looked "wrong". It hit me suddenly that all the leaves on the bottom half of the 8' high Euonymus shrubs were GONE!
Well, sometimes it takes a few minutes for the brain to "see" the difference between what it is looking at and what the memory says was there before. So many possibilities came to mind. Insect damage? Not in Winter. Fungal disease? Ditto about Winter. Natural leaf fall? No, it's an evergreen.
DEER!
When I moved into to this newly-built neighborhood, there were deer around. There was a swamp across the street and deer love wetland edges. I almost got trampled by 2 panicked deer while I was mowing the lawn my first Fall. I used to see deerprints in the lawn at first. That all stopped after a few years as the street filled with new houses.
Last year, I had some hostas eaten for the first time in 15 years. This Winter, shrubs for the very first time.
Saturday, March 15, 2014
Snowblowwer Snow That Wouldn't Melt
Well, I intend to write mostly about something else tonight, but I just stumbled across something on the Public Broadcasting System at dinner I really liked. A show called "Classic Rewind" plays famous classical music set to film (like Disney's Fantasia" was classical music set to animation). And apparently, it is a regular show but also available as an 8 DVD set of 135 pieces of music. I plan to get it. So I just wanted to mention that first.
OK, onward... Before it gets too late, I wanted to mention a seeming violation of the laws of physics. Seriously, ice melts in your drink too fast, right? Well, I had the opposite problem. I couldn't get snow to melt!
I happened after I FINALLY got to use my 3 year old snowblower for the first time March 5th (See? This is already 10 days old). But the point is that I used it, it worked pretty well, and I was done clearing the driveway and sidewalk. But there was a slight problem. Toward the end as the snowblower warmed up I suppose) the input area got packed with snow (so it was heavier than the snow on the ground) and the output chute got clogged with slush. I had cleared it once, but when I was done, I didn't think about it much except to recognize that the snow in the snowblower would melt in the garage, so I placed an old towel under it to wick away the melting packed snow and let it evaporate. Good plan.
Except the snow packed in the snowblower refused to melt! The garage was at 40F degrees, so it should have melted. Three days later, no apparent melt! It was FIVE DAYS above freezing in the garage before the snow finally started to melt. It was only 2 days ago that it finally all melted.
I wish I had taken pictures, but I had no reason to think it would be interesting at first, and after a few days I was just fixated on my annoyance that the snow in the blower wouldn't melt!
You can imagine it though. Sort of like the "snowman who wouyldn't die"!
OK, onward... Before it gets too late, I wanted to mention a seeming violation of the laws of physics. Seriously, ice melts in your drink too fast, right? Well, I had the opposite problem. I couldn't get snow to melt!
I happened after I FINALLY got to use my 3 year old snowblower for the first time March 5th (See? This is already 10 days old). But the point is that I used it, it worked pretty well, and I was done clearing the driveway and sidewalk. But there was a slight problem. Toward the end as the snowblower warmed up I suppose) the input area got packed with snow (so it was heavier than the snow on the ground) and the output chute got clogged with slush. I had cleared it once, but when I was done, I didn't think about it much except to recognize that the snow in the snowblower would melt in the garage, so I placed an old towel under it to wick away the melting packed snow and let it evaporate. Good plan.
Except the snow packed in the snowblower refused to melt! The garage was at 40F degrees, so it should have melted. Three days later, no apparent melt! It was FIVE DAYS above freezing in the garage before the snow finally started to melt. It was only 2 days ago that it finally all melted.
I wish I had taken pictures, but I had no reason to think it would be interesting at first, and after a few days I was just fixated on my annoyance that the snow in the blower wouldn't melt!
You can imagine it though. Sort of like the "snowman who wouyldn't die"!
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