Dear Mom, gone 2 years+
My faithful correspondent over the years, teacher of cooking, lover of cats, literate jokester, player of puns, mistress of doggerel poetry, music lover, who taught me to not only read but love what I read, I miss you on this day most of all. You taught me that anything worth doing was worth overdoing. Every word I play with comes from your guidance.
In my younger years, you allowed my to try things I couldn't do well until I COULD do them well. My fondest memories are when I said "Mark Do", and you let me DO. I would not be the person I am if you hadn't allowed "Mark Do", as frustrating as it must have been at the time.
In later years, when I slowly became an adult you were my Dear Friend and I somehow became a co-equal in your eyes.
I am not quite what you thought I would be, but more than you may have imagined. I know what you desired of me and I am not that, but I have lived a full life in my own way. You sent me out into the world to see what I would do and I did "my thing". I wish you could see me now. I think you would approve.
I have always remembered that you wanted a "Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John" but you liked the name "Mark" best and gave me that name as the eldest child. I have carried the name proudly but without the religious meaning. You accepted that from my early teenage years to the last day I spoke to you and you were proud of me to the end of your days.
Thank you.
Love,
Mark
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Inept At Showing Videos
I need help showing videos! I did it once but I just can't figure it out again. I'm not on Twitter, FB, or anything other than Blogger and email. I can watch the videos on my own computer just fine; they work. I just can't upload them to the Mark's Mews blog. Can someone tell me the simple basic way to do that? I have cool Mews videos to share and I can't do it. ARRGGHH! I feel stupid.
Mark, cavebear2118 AT verizon DOT net
Mark, cavebear2118 AT verizon DOT net
Planting Tomatoes
For years, I have pushed the tomato-planting season using things to keep them warm in mid April. The past several years I've gotten a poor harvest. So this year, I decided to wait until the nighttime low temps were above 50F. Tomatoes don't like temps under 50F and can die at 45F. So I watched the 10 day forecast after the average last frost date of April 21 (around here). There was one night at the end of April under 50F so I waitedMay 1st, the 10 day forecast said none under 50F, so I planted 4 next to the house (well, its warmer there).
Then the 10 day forecast said there would be 1 night below 50F so I waited until after that to plant the tomatoes in the far garden. Just a couple days, may as well wait. When that cool night was passed, I looked at the 10 day forecast again, and AGAIN there was a 40's F night in 2 days. So I waited again.
Now there are 41/42F nights forecast for Sunday and Monday night! So now I have to wait til Tuesday to plant the rest of the tomatoes (and peppers and cucumbers and other warm weather crops). This is really setting the season back a bit.
It has not been this low in the nights that I can recall at this late date. It's global warming. Yes, you read that right. Global warming means that, as the Earth heats up, weather becomes more unsettled and random. Eath heat sends the weather off in more random extremes. So don't listen to some ideological or scientifically-illiterate politician tell you that global warming isn't true just becuae YOUR local weather has been cooler. Global warming does not mean "local warming all the time every day".
Speaking of good forecasting, yesterday, The Weather Channel website hourly forecast said "local thinderstorms about 9:15 pm tonight. At 9:15 pm I heard a first distant thunder!
I'll wait 2 more days to plant the rest of the tomatoes, but I will sure check the forecast to decide if I need to cover them for a little more warmth!!!
This year, I really want to try the "wait til its warm" planting idea.
I DID get a lot of weeding around the flowerbeds done today. A third. If that doesn't sound like much, it was a space 25' x 8 feet, among existing flowers. You have to walk very carefully among them to weed.
Then the 10 day forecast said there would be 1 night below 50F so I waited until after that to plant the tomatoes in the far garden. Just a couple days, may as well wait. When that cool night was passed, I looked at the 10 day forecast again, and AGAIN there was a 40's F night in 2 days. So I waited again.
Now there are 41/42F nights forecast for Sunday and Monday night! So now I have to wait til Tuesday to plant the rest of the tomatoes (and peppers and cucumbers and other warm weather crops). This is really setting the season back a bit.
It has not been this low in the nights that I can recall at this late date. It's global warming. Yes, you read that right. Global warming means that, as the Earth heats up, weather becomes more unsettled and random. Eath heat sends the weather off in more random extremes. So don't listen to some ideological or scientifically-illiterate politician tell you that global warming isn't true just becuae YOUR local weather has been cooler. Global warming does not mean "local warming all the time every day".
Speaking of good forecasting, yesterday, The Weather Channel website hourly forecast said "local thinderstorms about 9:15 pm tonight. At 9:15 pm I heard a first distant thunder!
I'll wait 2 more days to plant the rest of the tomatoes, but I will sure check the forecast to decide if I need to cover them for a little more warmth!!!
This year, I really want to try the "wait til its warm" planting idea.
I DID get a lot of weeding around the flowerbeds done today. A third. If that doesn't sound like much, it was a space 25' x 8 feet, among existing flowers. You have to walk very carefully among them to weed.
Thursday, May 9, 2013
A Surprise Visitor
Poor pictures, but the best I could get from through a window and far away. I was in the house and saw a huge bird swoop into the backyard. I intially thought it was a turkey due to the large body size.
I assumed that if I opened the deck door for a clearer shot, it would fly away before I could get the camera to focus on it. I was right about that. When it DID finally fly away, the picture I got was so blurred it could have been anything from an elephant far away to a spider on the camera lens
But when it flew away, I could see it was obviously a vulture. I couldn't imagine why a vulture would fly between and under trees. There was nothing dead out there; I had been at that spot not long before.
The only thing I can think of is that the spot it landed was where a tree stump had been ground in January. I had an old bag on corn gluten meal that had gotten damp and packed hard as dry brown sugar and I couldn't break it up well enough to use it in my lawn spreader.
So, thinking of what I could usefully do with it, I remembered that wood chips take a LOT of nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, the fastest way to break down wood chips would be to put a LOT of nitrogen on them. Corn gluten is very high in nitrogen... So I had dumped the bag on the pile of wood chips and pounded it down into smaller clumps. The rains have been dissolving it into the wood chips.
I know that vultures are said to hunt by sight, not smell, but there is a full leaf canopy overhead, and the vulture came in under the trees from downwind. I think that it was attracted by some smell from a lot of nitrogen in one spot beginning to react with the older wood chips.
But it sure was strange...
I assumed that if I opened the deck door for a clearer shot, it would fly away before I could get the camera to focus on it. I was right about that. When it DID finally fly away, the picture I got was so blurred it could have been anything from an elephant far away to a spider on the camera lens
But when it flew away, I could see it was obviously a vulture. I couldn't imagine why a vulture would fly between and under trees. There was nothing dead out there; I had been at that spot not long before.
The only thing I can think of is that the spot it landed was where a tree stump had been ground in January. I had an old bag on corn gluten meal that had gotten damp and packed hard as dry brown sugar and I couldn't break it up well enough to use it in my lawn spreader.
So, thinking of what I could usefully do with it, I remembered that wood chips take a LOT of nitrogen from the soil. Therefore, the fastest way to break down wood chips would be to put a LOT of nitrogen on them. Corn gluten is very high in nitrogen... So I had dumped the bag on the pile of wood chips and pounded it down into smaller clumps. The rains have been dissolving it into the wood chips.
I know that vultures are said to hunt by sight, not smell, but there is a full leaf canopy overhead, and the vulture came in under the trees from downwind. I think that it was attracted by some smell from a lot of nitrogen in one spot beginning to react with the older wood chips.
But it sure was strange...
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Ouch, Ouch, Ouch!
I stepped on the corner of it and lost my balance. Normally, that would have been OK; I am a bit agile even when falling. But there were those pavers and bricks stacked up. My left wrist smacked the pavers. My wrist is fine, (well there IS a nice linear bruise from the watch) but my watch isn't. Lost a pin! The watch flops around. So I taped it in place, LOL! It won't win any fashion contests but it's OK until I get a replacement pin.
I know that this seems all lighthearted, but I was actually THIS close to breaking my wrist, knocking out a tooth, breaking my ankle, or putting out an eye (I found myself staring at a paver corner real up close and personal). And my ankle is sore. I COULD have broken it but it feels better already. Still sore though. I'm lucky on stuff like that.
But I've removed all the stuff on the deck stair. If you have stuff on any stairs, do the same. You really don't want to look at the hard corner of a paver stone from an inch away...
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Soil Improvement Time!
I finally got the car onto the trailer to visit the local nursery a couple of days ago. I wanted a LOT of good compost. Around here, that is "Leaf Gro". The nursery sells it in bulk with a front-loader into a trailer or pickup bed. I got almost a cubic yard for $28. That's about the same as $60 worth in bags at the big box store and I doubt their stuff is the same quality.
So I covered the trailer , drove it home and into the back yard, and uncovered it. Lovely stuff (see yesterday's picture). The first use was to add to the soil bulk in the small tomato bed against the house.
Here's the BEFORE picture. Half-filled with soil (the old falling-down raingutters drained in there, washing soil out). There were lots of grasses spreading by runners too. I turned over all the soil with my leverage fork. That's a really cool tool (more below).
I filled it with 3 wheelbarrows of Leaf Gro and hardly made a dent in the trailer-load..
Then I turned the soil deeply with the leverage fork to mix them. It doesn't look as nice and dark on top, but the compost is now deep in the root zone where it should be. I left space for 2" of bark mulch. And I will say that the newly-sharpened shovel really went right down deep with little foot pressure. And when hard clumps of old dirt came up, it easily cut through them. Good tools are wonderful!
The red hose you see, BTW, normally sits on the top of the back board and runs along the fence all the way to the back yard where the rest of the veggie garden is. It sure beats unlooping 100' of hose back near the house everytime I need to water the main garden.
The leverage fork is amazing. You put a foot in the center and push down. Then you push the handle back and down. The horizontal bar provides bending leverage (hence the name) and this thing is solid steel providing great strength. I use it to turn hard soil when a regular garden fork is too weak. The only limitation is the depth. It only goes down 8" because of the leverage bar. But 8" is pretty good for most crops. And if you use it to break up the hard soil BEFORE you add better soil, it is great too.
After using the leverage fork to break up the hard soil is when I added the Leaf Gro compost (a local product, I think) to the bed. At that point, I could use the regular shovel to turn and mix the soil and chop up large dry chunks. And pick out grass-runner roots.
Since this bed is right up against the house, it is warmer there. I'll plant some of the tomatoes there Monday and show the finished job then. The weather forecast says the nightly lows will be above 50 after today for the rest of the season.
Tomatoes are actually tropical (sub-tropical?) vines and do NOT like temps below 50. I've been using warming tricks for years, but this year I decided to just wait on the weather. Between the serious amount of fresh compost and the delay in planting, and the additional sunlight from having a few trees removed, I am hoping for an outstanding tomato season (and other crops).
So I covered the trailer , drove it home and into the back yard, and uncovered it. Lovely stuff (see yesterday's picture). The first use was to add to the soil bulk in the small tomato bed against the house.
Here's the BEFORE picture. Half-filled with soil (the old falling-down raingutters drained in there, washing soil out). There were lots of grasses spreading by runners too. I turned over all the soil with my leverage fork. That's a really cool tool (more below).
I filled it with 3 wheelbarrows of Leaf Gro and hardly made a dent in the trailer-load..
The red hose you see, BTW, normally sits on the top of the back board and runs along the fence all the way to the back yard where the rest of the veggie garden is. It sure beats unlooping 100' of hose back near the house everytime I need to water the main garden.
The leverage fork is amazing. You put a foot in the center and push down. Then you push the handle back and down. The horizontal bar provides bending leverage (hence the name) and this thing is solid steel providing great strength. I use it to turn hard soil when a regular garden fork is too weak. The only limitation is the depth. It only goes down 8" because of the leverage bar. But 8" is pretty good for most crops. And if you use it to break up the hard soil BEFORE you add better soil, it is great too.
After using the leverage fork to break up the hard soil is when I added the Leaf Gro compost (a local product, I think) to the bed. At that point, I could use the regular shovel to turn and mix the soil and chop up large dry chunks. And pick out grass-runner roots.
Since this bed is right up against the house, it is warmer there. I'll plant some of the tomatoes there Monday and show the finished job then. The weather forecast says the nightly lows will be above 50 after today for the rest of the season.
Tomatoes are actually tropical (sub-tropical?) vines and do NOT like temps below 50. I've been using warming tricks for years, but this year I decided to just wait on the weather. Between the serious amount of fresh compost and the delay in planting, and the additional sunlight from having a few trees removed, I am hoping for an outstanding tomato season (and other crops).
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Trailer Time!
A front loader bucket of Leaf Pro, about 25 cubic feet. $30 where the same in bags at the local big box store cost about $60.
The before pic for the early tomato bed. It's close to the house, so it stays warmer.
I started to add the Leaf Pro, The box was only half full of soil (the falling down raingutters last year dumped tons of water and washed soil out). The raingutters have been replaced. So I decided to fill it with half compost.
I dug the soil deeply, then added the compost and dug that deeply. Then I added more and dug it deeply again. It is one of the 2 sunniest spots left in the yard. The soil has been left alone a few years. With the bed being half compost, if I can't grow heirloom tomatoes there this year, I will have to give up here and consider a community garden spot.
I started to add the Leaf Pro, The box was only half full of soil (the falling down raingutters last year dumped tons of water and washed soil out). The raingutters have been replaced. So I decided to fill it with half compost.
I dug the soil deeply, then added the compost and dug that deeply. Then I added more and dug it deeply again. It is one of the 2 sunniest spots left in the yard. The soil has been left alone a few years. With the bed being half compost, if I can't grow heirloom tomatoes there this year, I will have to give up here and consider a community garden spot.
Friday, May 3, 2013
Cleaning Garden Tools, Part 3
The rules say to sharpen the cutting edges of shovels and such with a file. But I have a grinding wheel which is just as good and faster, LOL! We're not talking about fine cutlery here.
So, being careful to generally match the grinding angle to the original beveled angles, I set about the crude sharpening. You are only making an edge on one side (chisel, not knife). LOOK at those sparks, LOL! I had the handle of the spade resting on the floor, so the grinding angle stayed very consistent. A light pass back and forth did a wonderful job.
I gave the scuffle-hoes special attention. They work with back-and-forth cutting strokes just below ground level (sort of like using a mop). The front edge cuts under weeds on the push stroke, the back edge cuts on the pull stroke.
Then it was time to oil all the metal. I've read about that bucket of sand with a quart of motor oil poured in, but I'm not going to mess with that. It feels like pouring oil into the flowerbeds. The oil on the tools has to get worn off somewhere, right?
So I took another piece of an old undershirt and simply wiped the tools with it dipped in motor oil. Then I wiped the surfaces of excess oil with a another cloth.
The post-hole digger at the top of the picture WILL get file work. The curves are tricky for the grinder.
So, being careful to generally match the grinding angle to the original beveled angles, I set about the crude sharpening. You are only making an edge on one side (chisel, not knife). LOOK at those sparks, LOL! I had the handle of the spade resting on the floor, so the grinding angle stayed very consistent. A light pass back and forth did a wonderful job.
I gave the scuffle-hoes special attention. They work with back-and-forth cutting strokes just below ground level (sort of like using a mop). The front edge cuts under weeds on the push stroke, the back edge cuts on the pull stroke.
Then it was time to oil all the metal. I've read about that bucket of sand with a quart of motor oil poured in, but I'm not going to mess with that. It feels like pouring oil into the flowerbeds. The oil on the tools has to get worn off somewhere, right?
So I took another piece of an old undershirt and simply wiped the tools with it dipped in motor oil. Then I wiped the surfaces of excess oil with a another cloth.
The post-hole digger at the top of the picture WILL get file work. The curves are tricky for the grinder.
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Fish Loyalty
Fresh water tropical aquarium fish are generally small and only live a couple/few years. I have a 30 gallon tank, so there are about 2 dozen small fish in it (mostly tiger barbs, cherry barbs, and serpa tetra). So it is no great surprise to me to see a dead one every so often. Yesterday, I noticed that the male dwarf gourami of my pair had died and was lying in a corner of the aquarium. I knew I would have to get it out soon but I was a bit busy.
What surprised me was that the female was within a couple of inches of the dead male each time I passed by. I glanced at the spot each time I passed for a couple of hours and she was always right there! So I just watched her.
It's not like I always saw them swimming around together, and I certainly never noticed them trying to build a nest or mate. I'm also not inclined to ascribe complex emotions to a fish. But she was staying between him and the other fish in the tank. I think she sensed something was wrong with him and may have even been guarding him.
Pretty impressive for a "just a fish".
What surprised me was that the female was within a couple of inches of the dead male each time I passed by. I glanced at the spot each time I passed for a couple of hours and she was always right there! So I just watched her.
It's not like I always saw them swimming around together, and I certainly never noticed them trying to build a nest or mate. I'm also not inclined to ascribe complex emotions to a fish. But she was staying between him and the other fish in the tank. I think she sensed something was wrong with him and may have even been guarding him.
Pretty impressive for a "just a fish".
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
Cleaning Garden Tools, Part 2
Part 2 of the garden tool maintenance was to protect the wood handles. Most of my garden tools are old enough that the cheap wood finish is long since gone. So I was dealing with bare wood. I had thought I needed to paint them with wood sealant, but I have read that boiled linseed oil is a better choice. No, you don't have to go boiling linseed oil yourself; you can buy it that way at the hardware store. It will say "boiled" on the can.
The directions said you could dilute it with up to 50% paint thinner for better penetration, so I did that. I'll repeat the process using undiluted boiled linseed oil tomorrow after the diluted application dries.
I found that a piece of old cotton undershirt was a good applicator. And, though I wasn't worried about the linseed oil (its made from flax seed), the paint thinner can be a skin irritant so I wore latex gloves.
Since the gloves were immediately wet and I didn't feel like taking them on and off, I don't have pictures of the actual application. Fortunately, rubbing a wood pole with a wet cloth is a reasonably obvious process. ;)
So I'll show a couple of "after" pictures. Give the linseed oil 24 hours to dry. The wet rag can self-combust if wadded up and thrown away, so I spread it out outside on a cinder block. Same with the latex gloves, "just in case".
Note that the wood on some of the tools is much darker than on others. The more old unfinished wood, the more of the linseed oil was absorbed, so the darker it is. I assume that if you see the tools of an old gardener and they are deep brown smooth wood, they have been lovingly-maintained. Mine will never look like that, but I'll try to do this each year from now on.
These ones were all purchased about the same time, so the degree of darkness probably shows which ones I've used the most (wearing off the original finish). Well, it could also reflect the quality of the original factory finish...
Since the undiluted 2nd application has nothing new involved, just consider that done tomorrow. Friday, sharpening and oiling...
The directions said you could dilute it with up to 50% paint thinner for better penetration, so I did that. I'll repeat the process using undiluted boiled linseed oil tomorrow after the diluted application dries.
I found that a piece of old cotton undershirt was a good applicator. And, though I wasn't worried about the linseed oil (its made from flax seed), the paint thinner can be a skin irritant so I wore latex gloves.
Since the gloves were immediately wet and I didn't feel like taking them on and off, I don't have pictures of the actual application. Fortunately, rubbing a wood pole with a wet cloth is a reasonably obvious process. ;)
So I'll show a couple of "after" pictures. Give the linseed oil 24 hours to dry. The wet rag can self-combust if wadded up and thrown away, so I spread it out outside on a cinder block. Same with the latex gloves, "just in case".
Note that the wood on some of the tools is much darker than on others. The more old unfinished wood, the more of the linseed oil was absorbed, so the darker it is. I assume that if you see the tools of an old gardener and they are deep brown smooth wood, they have been lovingly-maintained. Mine will never look like that, but I'll try to do this each year from now on.
These ones were all purchased about the same time, so the degree of darkness probably shows which ones I've used the most (wearing off the original finish). Well, it could also reflect the quality of the original factory finish...
Since the undiluted 2nd application has nothing new involved, just consider that done tomorrow. Friday, sharpening and oiling...
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Cleaning Garden Tools, Part 1
Because we were forecast to have several days of drizzly rain, I thought of what I could usefully do in the house. One thought was to move the stereo cabinet over to the TV and use the speakers to improve the TV sound quality (a cheap home theater). The second was to do maintenance on my garden tools. The garden tools seemed more timely. Mainly, because I've never really done that before.
So I piled all the shovels, hoes, rakes, etc into the wheelbarrow and brought them all into the basement. I brought everything that had unfinished wood handles, a blade, caked dirt, or rust (and that doesn't leave much - an aluminum soil rake, a plastic and aluminum leaf rake, and a big breaker bar). Also, I'm leaving all the pruners for real sharpening "later".
There are 3 main things to do. First clean all the tools of dirt and rust. I know, we ALL clean the dirt off each time we are putting them away. Right... Second protect all the bare wood handles. Third, sharpen all cutting edges and oil the metal.
So, today I cleaned all the tools. I laid a few at a time on the workbench.
I was surprised to discover that a wire brush does not remove caked dirt very well. A narrow metal putty knife works much better and is flexible enough to follow curves. Below, I'm removing dirt from my poacher's shovel.
After all the dirt was scraped off, I took the wire brush to all the metal surfaces and then washed them with a wet rag. And of course, dried them with another rag.
Tomorrow, protecting the bare wood...
So I piled all the shovels, hoes, rakes, etc into the wheelbarrow and brought them all into the basement. I brought everything that had unfinished wood handles, a blade, caked dirt, or rust (and that doesn't leave much - an aluminum soil rake, a plastic and aluminum leaf rake, and a big breaker bar). Also, I'm leaving all the pruners for real sharpening "later".
There are 3 main things to do. First clean all the tools of dirt and rust. I know, we ALL clean the dirt off each time we are putting them away. Right... Second protect all the bare wood handles. Third, sharpen all cutting edges and oil the metal.
So, today I cleaned all the tools. I laid a few at a time on the workbench.
I was surprised to discover that a wire brush does not remove caked dirt very well. A narrow metal putty knife works much better and is flexible enough to follow curves. Below, I'm removing dirt from my poacher's shovel.
After all the dirt was scraped off, I took the wire brush to all the metal surfaces and then washed them with a wet rag. And of course, dried them with another rag.
Tomorrow, protecting the bare wood...
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